If $1500 includes the first payment, doesn’t that mean I only have 35 payments remaining(not 36)?
That being the case why are you calculating it as $700?
Also, what is the downside of FWD other than I can’t do donuts?
I’m in a similar situation. I drive 20k miles a year and I have a taste for nice cars. Fortunately, I found a killer deal on an i3 for under $200 a month. Factoring in insurance, tax, and savings in fuel (including home charging costs) the i3 expenses about equalled what the mileage fee on my BMW M3 lease would have been had I not gotten a daily driver. What tipped the scales in favor of the i3 was not only the convenience of an additional car, but the fact that I could now use the carpool lane.
The problem lies with the deal you can manage to get. The i3 had to be under $200/mo with zero drive off for the numbers to work. I don’t think I can score that deal again. Once again I have a problem: get a daily driver or just eat the cost? Lots of factors, and I still haven’t decided.
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No way will swapping a bmw take 3 days. 7 business days at the least, and more like 10-15 in most cases.
It can be a frustrating experience in terms of timeline (not just length, but the fact that you have no control over the process). However, it can work out quite nicely for reasons mentioned above- lots of people get drive well under contracted mileage. You still incur a risk for assuming a car with potentially unknown issues but thems the brakes (see what I did there?) for lower prices.
What’s the downside of FWD? You serious?
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Yes I am serious. A civilian luxury daily driver at sea level with flat roads. I am not going drifting or anything. Whats your point (if you have one)? What is the matter with FWD?
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Inferior handling. Torque steer. Poor contact. Just those minor ones.
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Don’t think I will find myself on many racetracks where I would notice the difference.
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It’s not about race track driving characteristics that you get with a RWD car… Wha ultimately… If you think the a 650 a month payment for a glorified Ford fusion is good just because you get complimentary maintenance, then it’s the car for you.
At less than 500 dollars a month, I leased a Stinger GT. Not at 18k miles a year, mind you, but I thoroughly enjoy this vehicle far more than any FWD platform I’ve ever owned.
Most cars in the 600 to 700 dollar a range that are “luxury” are RWD based. The market for that price range is usually RWD, which is why many believe a FWD shouldn’t be that much. I usually associate FWD with Penny-pinching and economy cars. That is just me and my opinion, for what it’s worth.
Why did you open this thread stating you want “sporty”? If we’re going down this new road, get a Grand Cherokee.
If you want to calculate it as $681.39 x 36, that’s fine by me, too. Does it make your MKZ deal anymore appealing? No.
You asked for am opinion, and you got it. Nobody has chimed in amd told you it is a good deal. But if you have your heart set on it, it should not matter what anybody else thinks.
Even though I like the car, I posted on here because I want to know that I am making a well calculated decision based on the circumstances and what I like.
I opened the thread saying “sporty/luxury”. I agree that the MKZ leans more to the luxury side than to the “take my car to track day” side, but a 3.0-liter twin-turbocharged V-6 with direct injection and variable valve timing that does 0-60 in around 5 seconds isn’t to shabby either.
I appreciate all input including yours. Thats why I started the thread. To get other opinions that may or may not fall exactly in line with all of my own.
If $681 per month is widely considered ALOT for this car with 18k miles per year, I would love to hear some other suggestions of other luxury sport sedans that I can lease for 36 months with 18-20k miles per year while staying somewhere between $550 and $650 per month.
I’d be very surprised if the FWD version could do that. Putting down the power while pulling 2 tons is not an easy task.
Anyway, I stick by my previous suggestions of the Stinger and Legacy as 2 cheaper options that I believe compare favorably to the Lincoln.
I’d also suggest seeing how a Q50 leases out with the miles you need.
Just as one example is this offer. After adjusting the residual down 5% (which I believe would be accurate to get to 18k) AND taking away VPP AND clicking zero drive offs, it still only gets to $635. And you don’t even need an RS, so a 3.0T is probably even less.
This deal in your area would have come out to a measly $400/mo. You’ll have to check with him what Sept looks like though.
I daily drive a q50 3.0t 45k msrp for 294 with TTL due at signing. 39/15k. I put 16k miles on in the last 9 months, Even if I drive 20k miles a year thats still under 400/month at the end. The warranty i think is until 60k miles. Gas is expensive, but its fun to drive at least. Deals like that can still be had if you find vpp. Couple more bucks if you don’t. I’m convinced it’s a great way to drive a new quick car with a couple luxuries, cheaply.
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Paying almost 700 a month for a glorified ford fusion seems like a poor value. The Q50 at 300-400 a month is a much better bet and then eat whatever the mileage penalty is at the end. Should not be that much.
If you want to save a little bit of money buying an Accord 2.0 touring is a slightly different approach. Little less luxurious than Q50 but much better tech and significantly better gas mileage while also only requiring 87 octane (makes a difference when you are driving 18k-20k per year). Accord also has a much better back seat. It should also hold value very well so you can sell after 2-3 years at 60+ percent of MSRP.
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That’s an awesome deal. I will look into this today. I was able to get VPP for my wifes infinity a few months ago so hopefully they will give it to me again. I’ll look on the forum but if someone can post a link showing all the numbers I can put into the calculator for a Red Sport that would be amazing. This way I can email the same sales guy and see what I get back.
We did really well on my wifes QX60 for $330 per month all in with VPP and paying MSD’s.
BMW will give you a credit if you go 10% below the miles, they have a scale i think it’s between $200-$400 credit depending on how many unused miles you have.
Lots of people spending time giving solid advice here, but methinks this fella is all over the place.