How to negotiate BMW prices? interested in an X3


I have been going around the forum looking at some of the deals people are getting for BMWs and they all same pretty decent. I am very confused though in regards to all the different incentives and discounts that people are getting. I did read the BMW lease wiki, but it only cleared up so much.

So here are my questions and I appreciate all your help

  • How are people getting %10 - %20 off MSRP? I understand loaners are cheaper but it still doesn’t make sense for me.

  • How do you determine a good value for a BMW ? Edmunds seem to show small discounts, def nothing near the %10 - %20 that people are getting.

  • What is the costco discount ?

  • BMW has a lot of different incentives, can they be combined ? IE can I combine graduate with conquest with costco?

  • What are things to keep in mind when leasing a BMW?

Thank you for all the help

It’s not the norm — well, anymore…

Key is understanding your market and if not achieving the desired result, willing to shop outside your market.

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All the info is here on the forum. I’m also looking for an X3, however I’m looking for an M or MC. I’m likely going to use a broker as it will give me access to a wider selection of cars and additional transparency, but I did try to hack it on my own. It’s actually kind of fun. Here’s what I found helpful:

  1. Look at the spreadsheets in the “Marketplace” section of the forum. There are several brokers selling BMW’s. They list a sample MSRP and the discount they can get for you. Use this as a basis… these guys have relationships with dealers and can get these discounts no questions asked. I tried to get 10% off MSRP on an X3M because that seemed like the going rate in the Marketplace… however for my area the highest I could get was 8% and that was after some negotiating. When working with dealers make sure to ask for the pre-incentive discount.

  2. Search around here, especially in the “Ask the Hackers” area. People post deal checks. I’ve looked at several for X3’s. Basically I learned that the first offer I was going to get back from a dealer was most likely going to be awful and there would be several things missing that I needed to ask for (MF, RV, taxes). You can also go a BMW X3 forum and find a prices paid thread for people who bought/leased the car. Edmunds can help you find the current incentives, RV, and MF for your area.

  3. Use the Calculator. Whoever created it was a genius. You can play around with several scenarios and find one that works best for you.

All pretty general stuff, I’m also new here as well. Good luck with your search!


For BMW? None.

Yes, and there’s also OL, PenFed or USAA. Though there are some restrictions on stacking.

You’ll probably need to spend a lot more time reading the articles and posts, along with doing a lot more research. If you’re looking to work the deal yourself, look to spend a lot more time… if you’re looking for a quick, painless way out, work with a broker :wink: good luck!

I’m a noob here, but agree with everything stated above. The spreadsheets are great starting points for terms like pre-incentive discount, money factor and residuals at a given time, but the broker’s markets aren’t necessarily the same as yours and you don’t have the goodwill that gets you their deals with just a phone call.

But there are opportunities if you want to put in the effort to stumble upon the dealer that needs to move and aged unit or hit a month end or quarter end target and is willing to make a deal to do so.

The following are some of the best kernels of wisdom I’ve found thus far reading this and other forums:

  1. know what you want both in the car — Make, model, trim and options for the unit and Only buy what you want. Don’t pay for what you don’t. It’ll keep you focused.

  2. know your deal terms and the variables for both you and the dealer — For you these include pre-incentive discount off MSRP for the unit in the market where it’s located, incentives you qualify for, money factor And residuals for the unit, MSDs, taxes, dealer fees, cap cost reductions (Don’t do it!), and DAS. For the dealers, it’s invoice, holdback, (as best you can surmise), mfg to dealer incentives, and good reviews. If you’re just shopping a monthly payment you probably won’t get yourself a good deal.

  3. use the calculator and the forum to deal check — The folks on this forum and the calculators are here to help. Don’t be proud. Be earnest. We’re here to learn.

  4. Walk away. — it may seem like there’s only one m340i x-drive in Portomao blue and cognac, with driving assistance, premium package, adaptive suspension, HK and remote start in the whole world (did I reveal too much there?). But trust that BMW is making new cars everyday and another one will come along. That means you have the power to walk away if you aren’t getting the deal you want.

  5. Be respectful — Even if a dealer laughs at you, don’t clap back. Calmly tell them they have your deal terms and you’ll sign tomorrow if they’re willing to accept them. Most of the time they won’t. But there will be that one time when the dealer comes back a few days or a month later when they need to hit a target and they’ll meet you on your terms.

  6. know when to say yes — sometimes we expect too much from a deal. Sometimes we leave money on the table. Unicorn deals don’t happen every day to everyone. The stars have to align. So don’t go into every discussion thinking your gonna get 20% off msrp, buy rate MF, etc. Instead, expect to fail so you aren’t disappointed when the dealer rejects your offer. But also have the sense to realize you’re overshooting if every dealer laughs and none call you back at month-, quarter- or year-end. It could be a sign that the market isn’t where you think it is. And when a dealer does come back with a good counter inspite of your ridiculous demands with an offer that’s close enough to your numbers, rememmber that you drive the car, not the deal and be happy with where you ended up.

Happy hacking.

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hah! Now I guess I know what you’re looking for… and that’s def a sweet combo.

okay so I got this quote for a BMW X3 loaner car. Let me know what you think. This is the first offer they made, and it will change in a few days due to new incentives and interest rates.

MSRP: $50335
Discount: $2500
Rebate: $2000
Adjusted Price: $45835
MF: .00099(matches edmunds)
Residual: %53
Term: 36
Miles: 12K
Miles on the car: 4414
Monthly payment: $671
DAS: $2054
LH Calculator(not a perfect match):

You’ve included the incentives in your discount and your residual doesn’t match. This is a horrible deal even on a non-loaner.

A 5% discount should be a non-starter, this is a horrible deal, did you look at any other X3 deals on this site.

No, dealer discount is $2500, rebates added up to $2000(Grad, Conquest, and lease cash). It is a bad deal I agree, but I wanna know what I can counter with.

Hey, this is just my first dealer and price. I wanted to get a understanding of what the deals are. The moment I saw the quote, I knew it was a bad deal, ideally I was trying to get it closer to $42k- 43k preincentives

Exactly I would shoot for at least 15% off before incentives.

Is that the norm for loaners or BMWs(new and demo)?

Before Covid you would be shooting for 20%. I would shoot for high teens and settle if someone give you 15 (with base mf)

Here is what I think I am gonna counter with. $43000 pre-incentives - $2000 incentives = $41000 selling price

You should move the 2k to the incentives line. I would target 41 without the 2k


Please keep all your related posts in a single thread. I suggest slowing down and spending way more time doing research on here.


I’m an even easier read in person. :laughing:

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It depends strongly on your region. Second @Electric’s comment:

Key is understanding your market and if not achieving the desired result, willing to shop outside your market.

For example, it is very difficult to get a typical east coast discount in the Midwest…

15 was fairly normal but 20’s almost always been unicorn territory on an X3.

I’m going to offer a very sobering reality that few have mentioned here. The strongest G01 X3 deals you can find will often have been from last year when the residual value was as high as 59% (This is 56 now) before any mileage adjustments. Add to that lease cash being between 1/2 and 2/3 of previously and you end up with a decent deal then looking like a unicorn deal would now.