HOW TO GET A GOOD WRANGLER 4XE Deal; Buckle up for a LONG read! (Part 2)

Yah, you’re still easily looking at $4-500 at the absolute minimum between the wiring and the evse itself to do things in a code compliant sort of what (have you priced 50 amp GCFI breakers lately? Ouch)

i have a quote for service upgrade and 14-50 install with breaker and disconnect outside.
service upgrade was 4k and outlet/breaker/disconnect was 350
thats including permits and everything.

Sounds like level 1 it is then.

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Unless it’s future proofing for EV purchases down the road, I wouldn’t spend $4500 to level 2 charge a 4xe.

Even if it’s future proofing, if you’re not in any hurry, I’d sit back and wait to see if the federal tax credit for ev infrastructure comes back. Until 12/31, you could have got 30% of that cost, up to $1k, back on your taxes.

thats what i am thinking to wait for sometime and see if rebate/credit is renewed/extended

You can certainly add 2.

I still have my first one on my UConnect app. I see it’s made itself down to the northern VA area :rofl:

Always thought about messing with the new owner and honking the horns lol

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I still have a level 1 - seems like @ElectricEliminator and I are actually the same people - had a volt on a level 1 for three years and did just fine because I really don’t have much of a commute. Also have a Gladiator currently and would love it to be a 4xe.

I do think I’ll upgrade to a level 2 in my wranglers life-cycle though, if for nothing else than preparing for more electric vehicles in my driveway in the years ahead.

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Once the dealer activates the Uconnect using the same email address, it’ll automatically add to the same profile

Level 1 is totally adequate for the 4xE for home overnight charging. I agree with others here that it’s probably worth holding out for future federal incentives before installing L2, unless you have another EV in the stable.

Keep in mind that public stations are all L2 (and occasionally free), so it’s nice to top off with the higher charge when out running errands, etc.

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Per JC my 10/14 Sahara build is in paint, but no dealer ETA yet. It feels like a miracle that it’s finally in production. :grinning:

Is it normal that Cryptostickers still shows nothing for my build even though its currently being built?

Have you tried pulling your buildsheet/sticker directly?

Not to be one of those guys but does anyone happen to have the current US Bank numbers for the 2021 and 2022 4xe Rubicon at 36/10? Just morbidly curious about what I’d be looking at and Edmunds isn’t going to be much help in that regard. @clutch @Jeff_BeachCitiesAuto @AutoCompanion et al?

Usually it ends up being like $30-40 less per month, although you can close that gap and then some by doing a one pay. Just be aware that you’re killing any chance of selling it or buying it out yourself to resell so lease transferring is really your only way out.

Yeah, I’m not really interested in the flip part of this. The lure would be to get a better equipped Jeep for the same amount, or slightly less than what I’m paying now, while being able to get out of the Gladiator through US Bank. It’s more exploratory than anything, weighing pros and cons.

I give the same advice all the time. Buy the car you want to drive, Home Depot, U-Haul, and Avis can all solve your problem 1-2x a year when you need something to move large objects or lots of people.

Had the same debate with folks in my office, you work a friggin desk-job, stop pretending your truck is for anything but show. You’re not a contractor or farmer … lol.

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Agree … at least $400-500 to have it done right … or you could be in a bad situation like mine where your existing box can’t accommodate another set of breakers. It’s too late now, but 2021 was a great time to upgrade your electrical for an EVSE and take advantage of the tax credits.

I was lucky enough to jump on a Bolt lease when they were practically giving them away and installed my L2 EVSE shortly afterward. Figured there’s a good chance we’d continuously have at least one vehicle that could take advantage of it.

Sooo…what if you have a 5k Ib boat, camper, etc. to pull? I’m not entirely sure why a personal vehicle has to correlate with what one does for a paycheck. Just to play devils advocate here… :sweat_smile:

If you’re a 110% city slicker who doesn’t see grass, sure, I could understand the skewed outlook of owning a larger vehicle. Other than that, the contractor/farmer comment seems quite ignorant.

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I’m not saying everyone doesn’t use it, but many folks think they need a certain type of vehicle when in reality they only need towing capacity a few times per year. For sure if you’re towing or loading a few times per month it makes sense, but this wasn’t the case for many people I worked with. Especially the ones with Lariat trims of the F150 where the bed was always in pristine condition.

It was more about just admitting that you’re driving a truck because you like driving a truck, nothing wrong with that. Just don’t pretend that you need it for hauling and towing if you don’t actually do any of that stuff regularly.

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How’s the towing with the wrangler? I put one on my build even though I’ve not towed before but seem to need it 3-4x a year

Can get you the numbers. Where are you located?