I ordered a Grizzl-e, which I just got. I’ve been using a Lectron, which is another cheap Amazon option. Since I got the Jeep, I’ve had a CEL 4 times now. Each time I scan, it’s B22A9, which google tells me is the ECU Internal Performance Radio Frequency Module. I also get a charge fault notification in the UConnect app, and the vehicle doesn’t charge. The code goes away after 1 drive cycle. It’s annoying.
I’ve seen a couple posts online from others with the same code, but it’s not unique to the 4xe. Maybe it’s my cheapo charger
Lectron is an interesting predicament. They seem to have a better idea of what’s going on and are a bit more trustworthy and then they go and release their version of the teslatap which flawed ground circuitry in it, which leaves me questioning if they have the slightest clue what they’re doing.
A question regarding the charger issues: doesn’t this thing come with a charger? With the limited capacity and range of the 4xe how long could it really take to charge with a level 1? Most level 1 chargers will give you about 4 miles an hour so if you charge it overnight you should be good, no? I’m just saying that unless you’re going back and forth from home a lot every day it seems kinda silly to spend the money on the Level 2, especially if you are gonna go with a cheap solution anyway that seems to cause issues. I definitely don’t recommend doing it but I’m able to properly manage an all electric Bolt using just level 1. I did it with a Volt and a Prius Plug in too so a 4xe should be a cakewalk.
If I drive to work and back and then want to go somewhere afterwork, the only way I can do that on electric would be with a level 2 since a level 1 basically is going to take all night to charge.
Sure, but if I’m not willing to spend the money for a good L2 charger it sounds like I’m just better off sticking with L1 and charging overnight. Seems like a better option than melting the charge port, considering the range limitations.
Agreed, although I think you’d have good luck with the Jadaniels unit if you wanted to be cost efficient. It’s cheaper than the crappy knock off ones anyway, it just lacks in looking pretty.
I thought it was 12 hours to fully charge? Granted, it’s not optimal but if you are treating it as a supplemental fuel source it doesn’t sound THAT bad. I handled my Volt that way for a couple of years, it really didn’t suck as bad as I thought it would. The success of the Volt is the reason why I have taken my sweet ass time upgrading to level 2 for the Bolt. NJ is dragging their heels with their charger rebate and the upfront costs of upgrading my panel really just don’t seem to be worth the minor inconvenience that it would alleviate for me.
I think often about ordering a Rubi and going through US Bank to take advantage of the equity in the Gladiator but it just feels like a lateral move at best in my case. Then I have situations like the couch my in laws were getting rid of that was perfect for my “nice” main living room and I’m glad I had the truck (Not so glad about the small chunks of paint I lost on the tailgate getting it out, I should have gotten the spray in bedliner!). We need a Gladiator 4xe, Stat.
You don’t need the Gladiator. For $20 bucks, you can run down to your local Home Depot and rent a commercial pick up truck to move a piece of furniture 1x in say, 3 years.
I certainly ain’t gonna put my mother in laws sofa in the back of my nice truck and scratch the bed.
I’ve had this debate for years with the guys in my office who are “pick up truck” guys. Unless you work general construction or own, say a farm, you really don’t need a pick up truck.
Ill vouch again for this unit. Ive had one of them for 4-5 years and its been flawless. This is the unit I would buy again if I needed another EVSE. I already monitor my circuits separately (and scheduled charging etc is of no value in my utility area) so low cost and reliable is what I want.
Its also alot smaller than something like the GE Wattstation (the other unit I have) yet charges at the same maximum rate.
