I leased a Honda Odyssey during the vehicle shortage. I was actually pretty happy because I sold my previous lease for about $12.5K more than the residual and rolled $6k of that into the new lease to make the payments manageable. Where I got hosed is I only got due at signing and monthly payment without a detailed lease sheet from my online quote. I asked for a detailed lease sheet, but let them slide not providing one. I plugged their figures into a lease calculator and saw a better deal than the selling price would indicate and figured I should just be happy.
It wasn’t until late in the process at the dealer that they revealed a credit union as the bank instead of Honda finance. The credit union deal was worse in a lot ways:
Higher acquisition fee
Higher money factor
Higher turn-in fee
Loss of Honda $750 lease incentive
It was better in just one way:
Much higher residual
Since Hondas have great resale value, I think I would have paid only $20/mo more for the Honda finance lease, but with a residual around $4k lower, I would have had a much easier time selling the vehicle and cashing out equity at the end of the lease.
I had gotten dropped off at the dealer and it was past closing time (9:15pm) when I found out and I made a bad decision rather than making them re-work the deal.
I post this now because LeaseHackr reminded me of this old post:
For what it’s worth, depending on how much higher the residual value is, you could have broken even or come out ahead despite those reasons you mentioned. It just depends on the actual numbers. US Bank and CCAP (for Jeep) can be used interchangeably by dealers depending on the month.
Residual is $32k compared to $28k which the Honda finance lease. Payments would have been $700 higher with the $28k residual. If I can sell the vehicle at lease end for $33k, I end up down $3,300 with the deal I got.
I dunno; I can understand why you’re annoyed, but I think, in the grand scheme of things, it’s not a huge deal. Getting the total lease cost that you wanted is a pretty big win.