Good Mercedes GLE 350 deal?


Figured I’d post the deal here to get some feedback. This deal includes $3,000 star loyalty, $5027 off MSRP and a tax waiver.

Instead of paying 6.25% on the entire car (I’m in TX) I’m paying 1.25%. I’m putting $0 down. Money factor is 0.00250 which sucks. They are also paying the first months payment so ignore the $974. I’m going with the 42 months as I don’t ever want a lease ending in the middle of the year again, year end is much better for deals. I also have $500 Sam’s and $500 in TrueCar military which they say can’t be combined/added to my current deal. According to Edmund’s lease “calculator” it’s a good deal, what say you?

Another thing I’m keeping in mind is that if I turn this lease in (it’s my 5th one) I’ll be replacing all 4 tires, have a scratch that’ll need fixed and lost one of my key fobs…probably $2500 out of pocket I’ll be spending if I decide to go with a BMW or Audi instead.

I can’t speak on the deal but you should hide your information

.00025 is very, very low. Im not sure what you’re expecting if you think that sucks. Is that buy rate?

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Fixed it. MF is 0.00250

So $974 x 41 = ~$40k to lease a car selling for 63 plus tax?

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Never thought of it that way :flushed:. I’d be better off just buying it. Would rather lease. Maybe the Audi Q5, Q7 or BMW X7 lease better? My lease ends 8-22 so I’ve got some time to figure out which way to go!!

Unfortunately none of those options will lease better. In the luxury suv market there’s not many attractive leases. There are EV options that have much better leases.

Have you thought of buying something like a Lexus TX or RX? Those will have relatively low cost of ownership.

I haven’t, but I’m not opposed to checking them out…the Lexus. Not doing electric

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They aren’t showing the tax credit on the deal sheet.

They don’t have Aquisition fee listed either. MB dealers typically mark this up.

This should be your 42 month deal with the sales tax credit reflected but not Sam/Military discount.


Thanks. So I finally figured out how to use the supporter calculator! I called them out for marking up my MF up to .00290 he told me that he went with what was on the computer, told him nope the MF is .0025, so he changed it and payment went to $906, but now all of the sudden I’m not eligible for the pick your Powertrain (dealer pays 1st payment) :roll_eyes:. I checked all three promotions (the one I didn’t mention was the accelerated lease loyalty as I have 1 month left on my lease) and you can use them all together! I’ve asked for the out the door price/actual lease numbers 5 times now and nothing. I am paying 1.5% in sales tax (was wrong about the 1.25%) and the acquisition is $1095 like you have on your sheet. I haven’t reponded to him since he came back and said I owe a down payment when every other discussion he told me I have $0 down and to ignore the $ money down # on the sheet. I’ve got #’s now and something to use for negotiating with other dealers!!

Check marketplace as a benchmark first. I dont know the market for this car but it looks like an “ok” deal if you have to have GLE. I bet many brokers or MP dealers can match if not beat this deal.

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Sounds like you’re ramping up on knowledge, and knowledge is power. :+1:

Don’t overthink this part. Make a well-researched market-supported offer, and move on if you get a no.

The tug-of-war is a waste of everyone’s time.

You’ll either leave anyway because they’ll never accept your terms, or you’ll cave and overpay.

Either way, you lose.


Getting into the weeds with the sales rep about the MF or whether the dealer will or won’t cover the $1k DAS or anything else is a complete and utter waste of time.

Who cares if they want to mark the MF up as long as they offer a discount that gets you to your target deal.

It looks like you’re trying to beat the dealer up over this or that with no clear target of where you’re trying to get to.

As noted above, take a step back, research your target deal, then make the dealer an offer. You dictate the terms, not the dealer. You will sign today if they can get to $X payment with $Y DAS. If they say no, thank them and move on to the next dealer.


I like negotiating selling price & money factor instead, to try and combat against FOLP (fear of low payment for the lurkers). If you went to a nissan dealer and said I want an Ariya for $86/mo $86 due they’d laugh at you. But if you said I want the selling price to be X and I qualify for Y rebates, it naturally takes you there


That’s what I did with the rebates and the fact that they are now saying I don’t qualify for one of the rebates after I told him I felt the money factor was off (which it was) it kinda pi@@ed ms off. I didn’t think you could negotiate the MF? Thank goodness for the supporter calculator!!

Has anything fundamentally changed?

This still resembles a hideous payment plan that only people who rent their furniture, TVs and PlayStation would take.

You don’t sound financially illiterate. Why are you acting like one?

Since there are sales tax credits, a broker that doesn’t have a TX dealer connection would have to give one hell of a deal to offset the sales tax savings. In TX we pay 6.25% of the sales price of the vehicle even on a lease. On a car like this sales tax is around $4k without sales tax credits. That adds about $95/month to any pretax out of state broker payment you’re going to find. Assuming a 42 month lease as OP has stated.

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This is probably one of the best examples I’ve seen in months of a new user actually using the calculator correctly, being open to other models based on what might make more sense, and actually being open to help and constructive criticism on their deal…

I’ve got news for you straight from my industry experience, normal people who do not “rent their furniture, TVs and PlayStation” take deals worse than this every single day. Most people just don’t have the knowledge and don’t know better. I get that every one can do simple math about cost to lease vs cost to buy, but still.


Where is her calc link?

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I should have said used it to obtain info