please mark for deletion mods…
Your numbers have $3905 due at sale. His numbers have $994 das.
How would I account for that in the calculator? And would I end up paying less interest if I pay the taxes up front? Or does it not matter
The calculator FAQ goes through adjusting das to match ad needed. You can adjust the down payment as needed and/or hit the capitalize taxes button.
If you capitalize the taxes, you’ll pay rent charge on the tax amount, but with a .00086 mf, it’s not going to cost you much.
Here you go
A couple things I noticed, wondering if this could account for some of the discrepancy:
Was the $1500 already included in (not in addition to) the 10% discount?
The dealer said the NY tax was included in the Cap Cost.
The dealer did say zero down payment.
I’m just muddling through this too as I’d have the same questions if this were my deal.
There’s basically no discrepancy here other than the das not matching.
Thanks for the help. Does this sound like a good deal? Should I push for 11 or 12% since it looks like the m440’s aren’t in high demand at all?
At what point (% off MSRP all other factors considered equal) would the dealer start losing money?
I don’t think you’re going to get a much better price given the current market, but I think that the m440 is a very poor lease value currently. You’ll be lighting a lot of money in fire to be an early adopter.
In your opinion, what would be a good lease value?
I’d probably consider a c43 for $100-150 less per month or an m340
@Kinkmeister - Find another car to lease unless you want to pay to play. If you were a Penfed member, you would save an additional $500 (There is a thread on how to sign up. All you need is $5, and after 60 days of membership, you get to generate a certificate).
If there are upcoming BMW Driving events in your area, you could potentially save an additional $500-$1000 by attending such an event. You normally will receive an OL code (certificate) a few days or weeks after attending. There is also a thread about this. Search the forum for “OL CODE”.
This is incorrect. You don’t pay interest on money not borrowed. It is cap cost plus residual times MF.
Came here to post this. According to the OP’s post, the dealer said this, which is even worse that he/she is misleading you
You’re right, I would think that he said that intentionally since it is a pretty big misinterpretation of how to calculate interest… hm, this has gotten me rethinking the m440, not so sure if it’s worth 834/month. The numbers sound more like an M4 lease, no? I wish the M2 comp had more tech in it, then this would be a no-brainer. Any thoughts on what other cars to look at that are comparable in performance and under 70k almost fully loaded?
I think this is the third M440 thread this week. There may be additional insight in the others.
My eyes glaze over when I see $8xx for a 4-Series, so admittedly I haven’t absorbed much in any of these threads.
Any thoughts on which bmws lease the best? At this point I may to change models…
I heard the m2c is better to buy instead of leasing, even if you’re going to keep it only 3yrs
Realistically, are you open to all BMW alternatives?
There have been recent 7 Series offers with payments in the 6s and 7s, but those aren’t exactly interchangeable with a 4 on the average person’s shopping list.
Lots of 8 Series deals in recent memory also, but those are higher.
I’m open to all ideas. If I can get a 7 for 600-700 I may seriously consider.
I’m trying to keep my entire monthly(including tax, upfront fees) below 750/mo when all’s said and done.
Buying is an option, but I just completed a private sale and prefer not to live through that hassle again so I thought I’d give leasing a go. I probably won’t want to hold onto my next car for more then 5yrs max.
Start searching/looking at former demos or loaners.