Desperately looking to sign one of these Silverado EV’s. After attempting to replicate the deals I’ve seen in signed, specially the deal constructed. I actually have never leased before but I’m currently in a situation where my needs call for a midgate. So my options are to make this work or drop $5,000 on a 2005 Avalanche with about 180k miles on it
Update - Deal 3:
I’m currently looking at this Silverado now. This is a link to my calculator. Any critiques would be helpful, so I’m a bit more prepared prior to talking to the dealer I assumed I can remove the protection package for $1,556 so I made the purchase price $82,836
The payment is at $596 with $1,198 down. This is quite far from what I had seen online in the past. How is it possible that other SIGNED deals had better residuals? Also, my money factor seems to be super low on this compared to other cars I’ve tested out.
Deal#1(failed - so far):
This morning I had a dealer price for a non-loaner at $64,000. They ended up quoting me over $700/mo for $0 down 24/mo 10k. That Silverado is linked here if you’d like to see it. How would you go about reviving this?
Dealer #1 states that the $7500 EV credit is rolled into the residual. My payment would have been $511 but after tax/title/fees it was over $700. They would not send me a breakdown.
Deal#2(Current):
Here is my latest quote from them which is way out of what I can pay for. What is the best plan of attack here?
Since I know your relatively new here with 15 hours of read time, I’m going to make an assumption that you’ve come across what is essentially one of the main teaching points on LH:
Do Not ask for a Quote
As you can see, if you ask for the best numbers they will tell you how much they want you to pay.
Instead you utilize LH and use the search function, go to Signed Deals and put together a target offer based off the data points you gathered. Send that to dealers versus asking for quotes. In that same research you will find that yes, GM enhances the RV with the $7500 from the Government.
Thank you for the info. I actually tried building out my lease based on signed deals that have been posted but I’m not getting anywhere near it. That’s why I asked for a quote from dealer #2 to see what exactly was going on.
If MF and Residual are static, I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around how Deal #1 was still coming out to over $700/mo
If you build a calculator and post a link, even if you have errors, someone will usually help.
This would be a good time just to model a potential deal. This is easier than trying to reverse engineer a quote sheet, if you aren’t accustomed to the exercise.
Plus you’ll need to do that anyway, for when you pivot to making offers.
All lessors have a base MF rate, as a super supporter, this is what you see in RateFinder on the calculator. Dealers can and many times will mark up the money factor to obtain additional profit. Credit score has no effect as to whether a dealer marks it up or not.
That AutoNation quote has a lot of additional items in there eating up the monies… and it seems across the US; many don’t want to move these at fire sale prices that you saw on signed… so just state your deal that you want, and when you can come in to sign for it and move on if they can’t. You might have to consider going further out of your radius to get the deal. Good luck out there and you may want to consider 24 months more so due to the warranty.
This is a link to my calculator. Any critiques would be helpful, so I’m a bit more prepared prior to talking to the dealer I assumed I can remove the protection package for $1,556 so I made the purchase price $82,836
The payment is at $596 with $1,198 down. This is quite far from what I had seen online in the past. How is it possible that other SIGNED deals had better residuals? Also, my money factor seems to be super low on this compared to other cars I’ve tested out.
First, to get registration, title, and dealer fees wouldn’t I need to request a quote? I thought the goal here was to not request a quote per @ApexHunt’s post. I also figured (probably incorrectly) that it would be included in the “EARNHARDT PRICE” of $84,402.
I used rate finder with my ZIP (85142) to get RV and MF.
I arrived at 14.14% by taking MSRP listed online ($96,495). Then I just used the “EARNHARDT PRICE” of $84,402 minus the protection package ($1,556). This gave me $82,836.
No. Usually dealer fees are posted on their website and registration fees the same, you can usually get pretty close without negatively impacting the monthly number you want to be at. And again dealer fees can range.. if you are getting a new tag the registration fees will be higher, tag transfer usually lower..
