Deal check on 2019 BMW X7 xdrive401 Demo


Noob here. Got this deal working. Ran it through the calculator and think I got close. Would like to know if I should jump on it or keep grinding to get a better deal. Any thoughts appreciated.

This is a demo with 5,633 miles.

MSRP: $81,995
Discount: $17,018
Rebate: $2,000
Dealer Fees: $509
TT&L Fee: $125
MF: .00148
Residual: $47,913
DAS: $3,500
Monthly Payment: $754.37

Here’s a link to my best swing at the calculator:

And here’s what the dealer sent me.

MF for this month is 0.00118. I would try to negotiate that down

There’s some funky stuff going on here.

Their numbers don’t come anywhere close to matching and a 5633 mileage loaner isn’t eligible for rebates

:point_up_2: what he said. And doesn’t look like DAS is $3.5k… more likely CCR is $3.5k cash from buyer? Numbers not lining up…

Thanks for the input here. Can you give me some guidance on what I need to get clarified from the dealer to vet this further?

Thanks for the input here. Can you give me some guidance on what I need to get clarified from the dealer to vet this further?

21% off before rebates…nice job!

First thing you should do is go to edmunds and get rv/mf/incentives. There may be incentives that you’re not getting here because of the mileage that would make this cheaper to get new than as a loaner.

Where are you located?

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Yah, except the numbers don’t add up for that.

Tulsa, OK 202020

Have you talked to any of the brokers on here for pricing on other X7s?

There’s just a lot weird on this one that makes me suspect something is going to change when you go to sign.

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ok, went to edmunds found nothing that suggests I can find a new one for even close to this. The MF and residual I found @ edmunds is also in the ballpark. @mllcb42 can you give me any more specific direction other than the numbers are funky and they don’t add up? Any diagnoses, questions, or help you can provide is appreciated but I need some direction on how to get to the bottom of where the calculation might be off or what you are seeing that makes you think this. Again, noob here so bear with me, but looking for some guidance other than this isn’t right.

Throw in MSDs and you are good to go.

I agree with @vhooloo vhooloo, 20% off a loaner is great, numbers look good. I think the only thing to negotiate down at this point is MF (if you can) but even without that, its not a bad deal.

I think Matt @mllcb42 is just talking about the $2000 rebate, which may not apply to a loaner (I’m not sure about this), but you have it in writing, so it would be difficult for them to deviate from this.

Good luck and send pics if you get the car!

If the $2k rebate doesn’t apply to loaners over 5k miles then it will be easy for the dealer to back out. Having it in writing on the deal sheet doesn’t mean anything other than someone made a mistake, which is why its best to get that ironed out sooner rather than later.

If the OP commits on the car and the rebate isn’t valid then I’d expect a phone call from the sales rep or Finance Manager shortly after…

I understand the rebate issue, that’ll make itself apparent when it comes time to do the deal so no sense in speculating now as that’s what they are offering. Can someone help me with the MSD? is the idea to shift my money up front to MSDs that way it refundable?

Based on my latest calculations :point_right: link here

I would be putting $2,400 down. Am I looking at this correct?

I just tried to fix your numbers in the leasehackr calculator and I’m not close.
This is the best I could do;

@mllcb42 is right. The numbers don’t add up. I think your residual value was wrong.

You may understand this, but just wanted to clarify
MSD is multiples of the monthly payment. So in this instance it would $800 x #of MSD (up to $8000) as a refundable deposit on top of your drive off to bring down the interest (MF).

You need to find out what the RV is. If there’s a 7% hit plus mileage for being over 5000 miles, that is not a good discount.

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It’s not just about the discount amount.

On a loaner with 5000+ miles on it, you should be not getting any incentives and taking a huge residual value hit. As such, a new one, with a much lower selling price/pre-incentive discount, may end up with a lower total lease cost, even though the discount is lower.

Right now, plugging in their numbers, they’re a good $2000 less expensive than their numbers suggest. That to me says something is very confused in the calculations. It’s easy to say “well if they’re way cheaper than they should be, why shouldn’t I take it?” The answer is because usually in that case, they’ll either catch the issue while you’re there and jack the price up or you’ll take delivery then get called back in to fix the issue at a higher price once you’ve used to “your” new car.

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From the calculations it appears that I am taking a huge residual value hit. That’s the only way I can get the math to add up. Assuming the $2,000 rebate is legit do you like the deal with a residual hit as shown here -