Working on a cx90 deal in ca with msrp of 77k and discount of 10 percent plus 15k in rebates . Looks like cap cost goes negative if the fees are paid upfront but positive if amortized over the lease term. I’m a bit confused on this . Shouldn’t net depreciation be sale price after rebates minus residual? If that is the case I don’t see how including the fees upfront as opposed to spreading them would make a difference on the depreciation
There could be some ‘creative accounting’ taking place on the dealers side, where they show positive depreciation on the contract, while still hitting the profit $$ they want on the deal.
If your dealer thinks it will fund and it doesn’t cost you any more over the life of the lease then it seems like a go.
Has anyone done a wellness check on @thevolvoguy ?
MIA I have tried
Keith is with Jeep now, NYC dealer. He is doing well.
So… @thejeepguy now?
Haha, yea
If the adjusted capitalized cost is less than the residual value, then you have negative depreciation. Period.
Nope.
Gross cap = Sell price + Capitalized amounts
Adj. cap = Gross cap - Capitalized cost reduction (CCR)
Depreciation = Adj. cap - Residual value
FYI- Nowhere is net depreciation defined in lease contracts. The reason is that Federal Leasing Regulation M does not define it. Reg. M and lease contracts only define depreciation as Adj. cap - Residual Value.
Thanks for the explanation. so what you are saying is that the gross cap does include fees such as tax on rebates and registration fees? thats the only way it would make sense
It may or it may not. If all fees, taxes, etc. are paid upfront, that means that there are no capitalized amounts resulting in Sell price = Gross cap. It depends upon how the lease is structured. This leads me to say that…
You may want to craft a lease proposal (example below) and email it to the sales manager (SM), not a floor salesperson as they’re often order takers and lack knowledge.
A lease proposal can be constructed in a variety of ways. Often, negative depreciation can be avoided. All numbers must be accurate otherwise, you’ll lose credibility. Negotiate via phone/email. Once an agreement is reached, ask the dealer for a review copy of the lease agreement and all contract addenda BEFORE you go to the dealer and sign. Moreover, it’s helpful to know the terms and conditions of the lease contract such as early termination liability criteria and purchase option criteria as well as lease amortization methodology and excess wear/tear criteria. If all is as agreed, tell the SM that you’ll come in to sign right away. You don’t want any surprises or dealer excuses like …. Oh, we made a mistake. That’s unacceptable and shouldn’t be tolerated.
If the dealer isn’t transparent or is uncooperative or showing signs of incompetence, WALK AWAY AND MOVE ON!
Leasing is time-consuming and requires a good deal of study and attention to detail. If you don’t have the time to commit, perhaps your best alternative is a good broker. There are some outstanding brokers on this website. However, if you’re willing to commit your time and resources, always control the deal. That can only be achieved with education which breeds confidence and increases the likelihood of success.
??? Let me know.
Is there a single pay option? How advantageous is that option compared to 10 MSD ?
Does Volvo allow lease transfer ?
Can over mileage be purchased at a lower price at the end of lease term?
Can the 2 year contract get extended at the end of lease term ?
See above. Not sure about the lease extension.
No lease extensions, really. Only with orders or with begging (and even then it’s only 1-2 months).
Pretty sure I read on a Volvo forum they’ll do 5 months if you have an order placed
That’s why I said “…with order or…”. 1-2 months is for “or” part.
I’m blind today. I should go to happy hour
Since the ABA thread is now closed I’ll post the question here.
There were some questions on how long you have to be an ABA member to be able to use the code and how that was recently changed to 90 days. But the new updates shared on the thread suggest that you have to be an active lawyer to be able to take advantage of the rebate .
So here is the question:
Is the pin valid if it is generated through a verified ABA membership that is less than 30 days since ABA activation ?
Should work if generated before 11/21.
My experience on the ABA pin:
I generated it 11/19. Leased a car on 11/23. They entered the PIN and was told it was expired on 11/21. They tried multiple times no dice, and they wanted me to generate a new PIN from the ABA website to see if that worked. ABA site said my level of membership is no longer eligible for the Volvo discount. After 10 minutes or so, they tried again, and the PIN worked. They showed me the screen so I could see that both the Costco and ABA rebates were approved.
So I believe Ursus is right - if generated before 11/21 it should work (as mine eventually did).
Data point:
Got a referral ABA code from longtime ABA-member-lawyer friend on 11/22. Leased the same day.
I said multiple times it was a guest/referral pin (showed them the ABA Volvo page where you select ‘send a pin to someone else”).
Worked like a charm.