CHEVROLET Suburban 2021

Most likely his customers are financing these vehicles. @ethanrs is one of, if not the most aggressive Chevy dealers on this site, and the GM leasing programs are national (with rare incentive exceptions) to boot. If there’s a deal to be made he would make it.

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Your negotiation of a down payment is the same as negotiating the lease. It’s a new body design, high mf usually, and not amazing residual for an expensive SUV. I never said get a minivan, I wouldn’t, but i also don’t think you’ll have any chance of getting a decent suburban in the 600s without a substantial down payment. Our 04 has 300k miles on it and we have had newer ones that we have gotten rid of with 100-200k. They last a long time so by that logic just buy one and keep it. If you have 4 kids pass it on to the oldest when he/she starts driving, I drove the 04 suburban when I got my license.

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Keep in mind that people keep pointing towards a minivan because for your requirements and the budget you have shared, that’s basically the only option. Now, if you feel that you want to expand your budget or feel that there is a misunderstanding of what your budget is, that may open up other options, but people aren’t saying “get a minivan” to be an ass.

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Respectfully, you are working backwards. You need to research the incentives (if any), residual and money factor for the trim, mileage and term you desire. The Edmunds forums are the best place to do that. You should request and compare the 24, 36 and 39 month terms to see which one is most favorable for the amount of miles you need. From there you should reach out via email to multiple dealers within a geographic area you are comfortable traveling. Focus on the selling price of the vehicle. My go to for that is “Hello, I’d like to have a sales manager email me with the current selling price before any rebates and incentives are applied on this (insert vehicle and stock number here). Thanks in advance for your time”. Anyone who cannot answer that simple request in a simple fashion is probably worth throwing in the Gmail circular filing bin. From there, the lowest selling price you get is probably your winner, unless they charge insane dealer fees (common in Florida) or unnecessary add ons. Be prepared to negotiate those away/refuse to pay them/ask for a higher discount in exchange for those items. From there you should ask for a detailed lease quote, as well as prepare your own using the Leasehackr calculator. Hopefully you wind up with a number that you are comfortable paying. Avoid putting large amounts of cash down, aside from paying taxes and fees up front. You’re better off putting any additional cash down aside to draw down from over the course of the lease. Good luck with your search.

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Just put $10k down and you’ll be in the $500s

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Yes but you should, that’s the joke :laughing:

The people who are suggesting a minivan are doing so from a position of shopping the deal/budget and not necessarily the car. There’s nothing wrong with that. If you have not test driven one it may be worth considering doing so just to compare it to what you seem to have your heart set on. From there you can weigh the pros and cons of both. That doesn’t mean you have to get one, but if you can get a well equipped minivan in your budget that does everything you need and you don’t hate driving it, it’s worth at least weighing your options and deciding if you want to go with a lesser equipped full size SUV like the Suburban, or blowing up the budget and getting what you really want within that particular segment. It never hurts to have options, in fact it gives you leverage versus letting a dealer know that you “have to” have that particular vehicle. If you have options and are open minded then they may work a little harder to get you into what you really want, if they feel the need to move that particular vehicle.

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Threads like these are why I keep coming to the forum

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Closed :frowning: …it was fun

Find a family member that can work some 179 arbitrage with it for you a bit of shenanigans and all are happy

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Gotta follow just to see what mini van she ends up getting.

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OP you cannot avoid gravity. It’s a $70k truck with a residual in the 50s. Play with the calculator on here and you’ll see even a 5% discount and base mf doesn’t get you to where you want to be. I get it as I’m not a van fan either but you’re going to have to pay to play on this one.

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These types of threads usually pop up on Monday morning…

Edit: I think Odyssey’s and the new Sienna look like fantastic choices for the $.

Edit 2: Hope things work out for OP, and however it goes, post pics in the Trophy Garage!

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Funny how the OP posted this and then rips people for telling them they are unrealistic

Suddenly it’s “in the 600s” with an unquantified amount of money down.

But payment shoppers gonna be payment shoppers.

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OP, money down is just a mirage that makes the payment appear less. It’s just shifting the money around.

You came here for help and you have an immense amount of attitude and dismiss any offerings of help because you seem to think that you, a brand new LH member, know better than all of the long timers here. News flash, you don’t. If you want help, get rid of the cavalier attitude and be open to suggestions instead of snidely dismissing them.

At this rate, you’re going to be getting a Honda Accord Hybrid with $10k down

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She wanna ride a Burban wood grain with the leather seats windows so dark you need a flash light to see me. :upside_down_face:

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How many are there. Honda Odyssey, Kia Sedona, Toyota Sienna, Chrysler Pacifica/Voyager.

My money is on OP just going with the Burban via finance or ponying up for the lease.

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Aside from the budgetary aspect, there are some practical issues that are hard to ignore.

Both of these will be in RF car seats. Infant seats initially but within a year they’ll be in RF convertibles which are much larger. Access to/from the third row for the two older children needs to be thought through, as well as for any adults who need to secure them.

Captains chairs don’t solve the question of RF convertibles blocking much of the usable space between the first and second row when entering and exiting the vehicle

NTM the high load floor of the Sub when loading and unloading babies, car seats, strollers, luggage etc.

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I’ll make this easy for OP. Calculate your total lease cost. That way, you can see how much you are spending for a lease regardless of how much down payment you put.

No matter how you move the money, your effective monthly will still be $600+

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Just put 35k down and you won’t have a monthly payment.

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And also the financial aspect of needing to go way beyond a ‘max’ budget, with 4 small children, because WONT DRIVE A VAN.

FWIW your kids want you to drive a van. Mine don’t care how fast or cool the other vehicles in the household are to anyone else, they always beg to go in the $2500 van :man_facepalming:

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