With all due respect, you seem to have some entitlement issues. You’re entitled to nothing in this world. No one is going to hand you a deal because you read it in an article about a national offer with a bunch of small print.
I’m not sure if you’re just playing devil’s advocate, or if you’re just a masochist. Personally, I like things to be easy with no or little drama.
Merriam Webster defines entitlement as “having a right to certain benefits or privileges.” I don’t have a right to this deal. And I don’t believe I have a right to this deal. So there is no entitlement here.
This forum exists as a means to share knowledge to help everyone achieve the best deals possible. My post is to that end — sharing the article I found, in hopes of connecting with others who can help me put this great deal together. That’s what this forum is all about.
No drama is necessary—we are on the same page.
Alex says we can expect a new John Wells novel next year. It’s been too long.
Merriam Webster
How do we get a new flavor of these guys every week.
What’s your point? Elaborate.
Turning on slow mode so everyone gets a chance to chill… (plus I’ve had margaritas 
)
OP - no need to be defensive but most folks mean well so make of that what you will. However, doubtful anyone is going to offer up what you’re asking for straight up without legwork. All the best in your search (and I mean that)
Here is one dealer’s first offer. The dealer discount is $500 on this quote, waiving all the dealer add-ons, with $2000 DAS. Is anyone seeing any better dealer discounts out there on Ioniq 6? I am trying to gauge if it is realistic in this market to push for more of a dealer discount in order to bring down the DAS to zero. Does Hyundai allow you to fully capitalize the drive-offs for a true zero down lease? Does anyone know?
I would take that deal. I went into the dealership and they quoted me $900 per month for 24 months citing super high interest rates on EVs.
No need to make this so complicated.
The advertised pricing shows an adjusted cap cost of $31100.
Add back in the $650 acq fee and $3250 cap cost reduction, and you get the sales price after incentives. Look up the incentives in ratefindr, and add that back in, and you have the sales price.
Compare that against the msrp and youll see what dealer contribution is required.
I suspect youll find this is basically an at msrp sales price.
Not really. Major difference in due at signing amount.
Earlier this month the dealers discounts were $5000 through AutoCompanion but that deal is no longer. I am sure you can find a dealership who is willing to give you more than a $500 discount especially as we get closer to month end.
Where did you find that on the website? I’m seeing 3k down. Do you have a link?
I do now see the $239 lease deal on the website…
I would say go back and offer him $500-$1000 due at signing and see if he bites, make things simple on yourself that quote is already pretty decent as it is aside from the small dealer discount, if you get them to knock out $1500-$1000 from the due at signing you got yourself a truly solid deal, that most normal uneducated on buying cars people could only dream of accomplishing 
If you get the discount then decide if you wanna tell them to roll the remaining due at signing in to the payments and you got yourself a zero drive offs deal
Here’s a link to a calculator I put together. This assumes an MSRP of $43,600 and $0 dealer discount. .
RV = 76%
MF = 0.00286
I rolled the $650 acquisition fee into the monthly payment. You will need to add your tax rate, along with your dealer fee and registration fee.
Hope this helps.
