Which idiot is paying 1% on an EQS, IX or Wrangler?
Always know your actual target for realistically the best payment, not some arbitrary percentage.
Hey if you wanna die on the hill of the stupid 1% rule, you do you.
Which idiot is paying 1% on an EQS, IX or Wrangler?
Always know your actual target for realistically the best payment, not some arbitrary percentage.
Hey if you wanna die on the hill of the stupid 1% rule, you do you.
Thatâs not going to meaningfully change the awful lease on this car.
What does âleasehackingâ mean to you? What brought you to a site called leasehackrs?
Leasehacking means starting with a model and trim that has good bones, ie it has the RV, MF and incentives from the bank that make it worth the effort to negotiate the realistically best discount from the dealer. And then pull any additional levers that lower the payment or add value without requiring any additional discount from the dealer.
The X7 60i is literally the opposite of what leasehacking is.
Weâre doing 8% in NorCal. A dealership that is at 4% wonât give you another $4,000+ off. Contact us if youâre interested.
Yeah itâs pretty clear leasing an X7 M60 is just bad⌠the car is nice but the lease programs arenât.
Is there a reason youâre looking at the M60 exclusively? I mean you said you were hauling kids and coming out of a Hyundai. I why arenât you targeting a X7 xDrive40 or a Mercedes GLS450.
I know the NorCal Bay Area has a dearth of xDrive40âs (there are like zero of that X7 powertrain in stock in the SF Bay Area). But if you can put in a custom order (such as through AutoCompanion) you can save a ton.
You can probably get a non-black non-AMG-Line GLS450 allocation unit for MSRP right now⌠seems to be a way to get what you need without the full beans in a X7 M60.
A Volvo wagon would do the trick and itâs under the radar, nothing to draw the attention to all your money
Do you mean I need to go for a cheaper car ?
I came to this forum to learn more about getting the best lease on any car I want whether its 10K or 100K, is that not the case ?
what youâre missing is that some cars donât lease well, this being one of them.
you could not light money on fire by listening to the hackers giving you advice OR you can light money on fire because you want the car you want. the secret to having money is to keep it.
Like I always said, BMW programs are mediocre at best right now, the .0021MF plus the 116k MSRP really hurts. I recommend you do the math, go on cargurus or cars.com, find a 3 year old X7 m50i with like 30k miles or so, see how much they are listing for. Undercut that by another 5k, thatâs how much your car will worth. See if leasing is cheaper or buying is cheaper, thereâs a function for that in the LH calculator too. Regardless, itâs better to find a broker on this site for a strong discount if/when your dealer fail to bump your discount to 8%. Hope this helpsâŚ
sent a message
So your issue with the 1% rule is that itâs an arbitrary percentage?
Clearly itâs a helpful ârule of thumbâ for a lot of people (myself included) - totally understand that it isnât for you.
IMO itâs still an easy way to comp relative value across leases/models. If thereâs a better ârule of thumbâ then Iâd love to learn - appreciate it!
Is that all you took away from what I wrote?
No, that is not the case. You cannot just get a good lease on any car you want. RVs and buyrates cannot be bent to anyoneâs will, and a good lease cannot just be manifested.
The fundamental of leasehacking is to know which cars lease well and ignore the rest.
But itâs a free country and if you want to sign a bad lease then no oneâs going to stop you.
Iâm going to have to disagree with you. While that may be the way before, right now it is a forum for car shopping in general. While we all get hyped with crazy leases like frontiers, eqs, and etron, thereâs a lot of leasing/buying the car you want at the best price. I mean look at the marketplace, if we went by your definition, you may just as well delete 95% of the deals on the marketplace lol.
Thanks, I do try to understand but this is only the second time I am buying a car. Thanks for your honest opinion I do appreciate it.
I haggled with the dealership around the 1% rule thing and here is an updated quote
New -
Model - BMW M60i
CA - Bay Area
MSRP $116,640
36mnths/15Kmiles
Sale Price - 10% off MSRP - 104,976
Lease Cost - $1336.91/mnth
MF - 0.0017
TradeIn - 14K (hyundai sonata 2015 - 44Kmiles)
Downpayment - $0
Let me know if this is really bad bad incase I do want to drive this car ?
Folks I got an updated deal;
New -
Model - BMW M60i
CA - Bay Area
MSRP $116,640
36mnths/15Kmiles
Sale Price - 10% off MSRP - 104,976
Lease Cost - $1336.91/mnth
MF - 0.0017
TradeIn - 14K (hyundai sonata 2015 - 44Kmiles)
Downpayment - $0
I am also working with a vendor to eval if a loan is better, but the APR is ~6% whereas the lease MF is 0.0017 which is around 4%
Your down payment here is $14,000.
Are you sure the MF is .0017? itâs showing up .0021 base on my end. Otherwise, looks alright, but donât think the math is quite right.
Nice did you leverage @AutoCompanionâs numbers in your negotiation?
woah! Nice job dude! For reference, I used a broker last year and I got 3% off on a 23 X7 m60i build
IMO, just buy the X7 @ 10% off MSRP and get financing from a local Northern California Credit Union.
One up here near Martinez is offering 4.99% on Tier 1. Yeah BMWFSâ MF is an implied 4.08%, but then you wonât have to monkey with the resid and trying to peg to miles over the term. No lease disposition fee either.
Yeah, but I am not writing a check so just considering it as 0 but you are right too.