That makes sense. Will do that.
Let me check on this in NJ.
Why would you? You weren’t scammed or anything
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I’m sure they’ll be able to do that no problem…
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Buyers remorse? 2nd thoughts. I absolutely love the car, it’s the pricing that I was a little hesitant on 
if your deal is comparable to the brokers on here, post their fees and their dealer process fess, I’d enjoy the deal you did and not worry about it.
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Exactly. Could a broker have done at least marginally better pricing? Perhaps, but you’d have to throw their fee into the mix (usually around $500 or so) and you would wind up pretty close to where you are right now. Depending on the broker that may have involved taking in stock inventory, which may or may not have had what you were looking for in your custom order either. It definitely doesn’t sound like you made out badly here, just make sure they actually etch the windows if they are expecting you to pay for it. I bet most of the time nobody even asks them about it.
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this isn’t a bad deal. The broker deals I see are about $650-670 all rolled in (before loyalty), but then there is also a broker fee. Your deal is in line. I wouldnt regret this if you love the car, maybe you could have gotten a few hundred less total, but the deal is good and you built the car to your spec. I am actually considering this car as well and may hit up a broker if I end up liking this car better than an S4.
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+1. It’s almost impossible to find a decently equipped BMW on the lot with all the stuff you want and none of the stuff you don’t. What good is a marginally higher discount on, say, a $63K car?
It’s also hard to make the claim that marginal price improvements are materially important when the OP was price-insensitive enough to not vet the original deal.
Chalk this up to an inexpensive learning experience
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Thanks so much for all your insightful thoughts guys. Definitely a big learning experience for me. Will not repeat the same errors I made next time around 
Must admit, this forum has been one of the best one I’ve been a part of.
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Don’t beat yourself up over this - you actually got an okay deal considering your “newbie” status. A learning experience wouldve been getting cracked with a shitty discount + marked-up MF.
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Newbie question - but I don’t understand what marked up MF means still. Any post I can read up?
It means the money factor (MF) has been marked up above the rate (buy rate) that the bank is charging.
Basically, the dealer is charging a higher interest rate than what the bank is actually charging so they can make money off the rent charge.
For example, a dealer may say “I’m giving you 11.5% off!”, which sounds like an amazing deal. But then, they add $1000 in extra fees and mark up the MF so that they’re making extra money on the interest side of things. That means your actual discount is a lot lower, they’ve just moved profit from the selling price to the marked up fees and interest rate.
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That’s called a dick move.
Put your shoes on the other feet for a minute…how pissed off would you be if you negotiated on a car on the lot, dealer accepted everything and you went there only to find out the car was gone, and they’re trying to put you into something else instead. What you’re proposing is similar to that. You’re ordering a car to your spec, attempting to cancel and leaving the dealer stuck with your specced car, not knowing how long it will take for them to sell it.
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Oh no I wasn’t thinking of getting my deposit back. It was more about can I even? I didn’t think that was even possible.
Technically, yes. Until you sign, you’re able to back out. As far as your deposit goes, IDK the NJ rules governing refunds on deposits or not. In all likelihood, you’d be able to get it back, although it might be a fight.
That said, if you negotiated in good faith, they placed an order for you in good faith, it’d be a pretty scummy thing to do to back out now over a percent or 2 you might be able to get off at dealer B that you should’ve vetted before agreeing to this deal.
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Yeah agreed. This forum gave me confidence that although this isn’t the best possible deal, it’s not the worst. Even if it weren’t a good deal, it is my fault for not doing my due diligence in the first place.
As others have said you’re not far off at all from 10% off at buyrate with a very plausible $999 in combined dealer and broker fees.
Unless it was pure luck you must have done some HW and that’s how you came out mostly unscathed
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This really isn’t bad. After the broker fees you’re on par with a deal from a broker most likely.
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In California you can for sure, it varies by state though.