I have, but often the lease does not work out because rebates are not included and buying back the miles reduces the residual quite a bit which pushes the up the price of the discount. It is easy to get below invoice on BMW’s, having said that. The X3 demos are leasing very well.
my numbers include the mileage penalty. These are leases that are 10,000 miles per year when you start the lease.
Ex.
if you buy a car with 5000 miles on it and do a 3year 30,000 lease on it.
The ending mileage on the car would need to be under 35001 before they hit you with a penalty.
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Would your numbers be cheaper if you don’t need the mileage penalty? In other words, in your example, starting with a car with 5,000 miles, and doing a 3 year lease, but only putting on 25,000 miles or fewer, would the payment be less than you have calculated?
I was able to get a little more than 18% off MSRP on a new 2016 328i this month, I say 20% at a minimum maybe more.
This is not how it works. The residual has to discounted and can not be counted against the lease mileage.
Definitely shoot for 20% off the msrp. I leased a 435i in October with 7600 miles at 21.78% discount
Got a quote for 455 per month on a 64K 535 demo. 5435 drive offs including 3500 MSD. Car has 3200 miles on it.
Is this okay deal?
@SUV i think you should aim for $4500 out of pocked incl $3500 which would be about $1000 for first payment, tax and tag.
I didn’t sign the contract yet but gave my credit card info and signed on the quote today. Now I feel bad about the deal. I could get new car for another $20 or $30. Can I walk away now? One option is going for a new car from same dealer. Any suggestions ?
@SUV u can walk if u haven’t taken delivery or signed actual lease docs with finance dept. quote sheet means nothing
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Thank you. I’ll say some nice words to the sales agent and walk away.
@SUV I agree with 305. For future reference, I wouldn’t sign anything or provide any type of payment info until you’re actually ready to complete the deal.
I think you should have already had one quote set for the new car and one quote for the demo, that way you already had two discussed scenarios, and if you wanted to pivot from one to the other, it would be a seamless pivot.
From what you said, it sounds like now you want to go back to the drawing board and figure out a whole new deal based on a new vehicle.
There’s nothing wrong with coming to a certain “understanding”, and saying that you think you’re close to a deal, but you’re going to give it a night’s rest to think about it or whatever it is that you need to do so that you can feel comfortable about making a decision, sometimes that little resistance works to your advantage, as the dealer will start offering a little more in terms of concessions to try to get a deal done.
The business has obviously changed; my dad was telling me the other day about a dealer he used to do with business with regularly, and the owner used to have a policy of not letting customers leave until they bought a car. He was just a guy who wanted to sell cars. It feels like now, especially where I am, dealers are just looking for the easiest prey they can rip-off, meanwhile they’re willing to let the educated consumers, the few and far between, take their business elsewhere.
At the end of the day, do what’s best for you. It’s your money, and they need to sell you the car, that’s what they’re in business to do.
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@SUV I wouldn’t just dismiss the deal, tell them you worked with another dealership and they just came back to you and they’re giving you the same deal but on a car with less miles and a better color and if they want your business they have to work on the numbers on this car otherwise it’s not worth it for you because this car has more miles etc. Don’t tell them the other dealer’s name, just try to make them drop the price more.
In other words, you’re willing to walk away anyway, you might as well push hard to see how far you can get them to drop the price to a point where you’d be happy about the deal.
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Why all this bullshit unless it’s true? Dealers have access to all cars in the area and can call your bluff if they want to. If a dealer tells you that “this deal is valid only today” - do you jump on it or dismiss it? They are not stupid and can play this game better than most of ordinary folks. Just be upfront and tell them what you want. Or - if you do have an actual quote from a competitor - send it to them.
Thanks for your valuable suggestions. Initially, we were looking for an X3 but after going through some threads here in this forum, I convinced my wife to get a demo/loaner 535 for the same monthly payment as X3. Our upper limit was $450. We did test drive both X3 28 and 535i and impressed with 535i.
Today, I went to a dealer in NJ to discuss leasing 535i. He did come up 8500 discount including BF incentive on new 535i. I was expecting 9K off without BF incentive. If I had insisted for some more time, probably he could have come up with another 1K. I didn’t like him going to another room to for every decision 
. I am sick of that. I feel uncomfortable. Got out of that dealership and made another hasty decision by agreeing for the above quote at my local dealer. I just gave credit card and signed credit pull document. I’ll put a hold on the contract and will look on leasing new 535i.
@SUV unfortunately car dealers like to play games like going to another room, good cop/bad cop and everything else in the book and it’s an uncomfortable situation, especially if you’re not used to it. I can only advise you to do everything over the phone and only set foot into the dealership once you reached an agreement over the phone. I don’t know what state you live in and how many BMW dealerships are nearby but I’d call them all. When you call them, give them a realistic number you’re looking for, stress that you’re a real buyer and are ready to make a deal today if they can make the numbers work and go from there. It’s inhumane to go to every dealership in person and go through that BS over and over again. Also if you don’t want to deal with it at all, reach out to @loberant , he oversees a bunch of dealerships including BMW and is very active on this forum. He might be able to put you in a car you like for the payment you like without having to jump through hoops.
I have found that when you start asking really good questions, like “what is the money factor, I have seen the base is .00134 is that right?” The sales people tend to go away and you start speaking directly with a manager who can get the deal done.
@conanohasselhof
bypassing the sales guy is usually the best way if you can, sometimes the managers don’t wanna deal and put a sales guy as a middle man but it’s good to involve the manager from the beginning. Sales guys are more interested in their commission vs manager is more interested in moving a unit.
Is this a good deal on new 535i? Has 35 miles on it. 36/10
MSRP: 64500
Monthly Including tax: 470
Drive offs (including MSDs): 6000