How do you not end up in this situation and getting an initial offer like this? I asked about dealer add ons prior to arriving (they saID none) and then they give me a sheet with $1900 in add ons I didn’t request. I also never committed to $2500 down.they said selling price was MSRP, at one point they were offering 1500 on rebates (Costco) and 1500 discount but I knew it still wasn’t enough.
This is for a 36/7.5 on a S5 sportback with an alleged residual of 60% and MF of .00239.
Those numbers and this sheet don’t make sense to me. Can anyone help explain how to not start with such a garbage offer and what the actual calculator looks like for this deal?
Work out a target deal based on a well researched dealer discount and the lease programs as they apply to your situation and then make the dealer an offer.
Theres no need to ever ask them how much they want you to pay.
They’re in CA though and I’m not sure if they do out of state. But yes horrible deal. @IAC_Scott can help locally. Or you can call a bunch of dealers out of state to get better discount. In NJ, most brands including BMW, Audi, Porsche, CDJR, etc suck compared to NY, MD,VA, or PA
I have 2 S5’s in the tri-state I’d be happy to discount a lot more than this, which is $0 off, but hey, at least you got an official scribble out on the Perma Plate! Feel free to text me if you need help, 516-416-5481.
So am in I correct to feel like this is a “fuck you, buy the car” deal? I think part of the problem is I am leasing through my business? But fully willing to be a cosigner. I just wasnt expecting this. I did see this says it has been on lot for 61 days but he said it just rolled off the truck. There were lies and red flags everywhere (talking bad about a different dealership). I hate people that build trust by knocking other brands/lots down.
They’re hitting you at full sticker PLUS add-ons on top of that, and they’re trying to get you to think that just getting the add-ons removed is going to “save” you money.
For perspective, my deal on this car (and I priced one out that I have that is almost the same MSRP) would be $851/mo with $2,500 total due at signing. I don’t even know if that $2,500 “down” is total due or down with extra on top of that. So just a casual 237/mo less.
Oh I get it. I assume this is just a dealership to walk away from if they are starting here. I specifically made clear I wanted no dealer add ons without discussion. The 599 nitro is laughable and he was trying to tell me it provided a “wheel warranty” and started talking about tires heating up and other bullshit. I said wheel warranty? For 599 you are giving me nitro AND it protects the wheels if they get damaged? Not the tires? Id want to see that in the contract… Needless to say he said he would have to check…
I have seen lease deals for 699 on this… That seems like a dream but anything with a 7 at the front starts to make sense (plus broker fee).
If I didn’t want to use a broker… Is is just make an offer to a bunch of dealerships and see what sticks? I just don’t understand DAS in NJ. Do I pay all taxes upfront or do I roll that into cap cost? I know I don’t want to pay a down deposit (sunk cost) but are upfront taxes reimbursable of the car is totalled before end of least? I’d rather have a higher monthly than a unrecoverable sunk cost.
It might be possible to get one starting with a 7, but you need to understand whether or not your target deal is even reasonable. Just because you’ve seen 699 on here, doesn’t mean it’s necessarily possible now, we’re in a new month, so even what was possible last month might not be possible this month. My deal with MSD’s added starts with a 7
Regarding NJ tax, it is due at signing by law, but you can elect to roll it into the lease, in which case the dealer will pay your taxes and then add that amount into the lease.
I always wonder why people don’t just go the broker route. Especially when they’re in the thread offering a deal. If you have limited knowledge of leasing, using a broker is a no brainer.
Your offers are enticing. Let me finalize my NJ MVC Corp code and then maybe should work together. I’ve never used a broker before. How does it work? Do you have FAQ?
Welp. I wanted to try again before I went the broker route after investing so much time trying to learn here and I am pretty sure I did a good job. I sign on Monday. Any last words of advice?
The only killer was the $2300 wheel and tire protection and I only negotiated a few hundred off but I assume with a car like this having this protection is necessary. Any thoughts?
