Don’t tell me that you are not planning on paying this in full and finance it at 17% APR?
And the MF and negative equity aren’t exactly helping.
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I doubt they would. Unwinding an RS would yield a loss > $4k, I suspect, on the next buyer plus the dealer’s hassle.
Full disclosure: I’m speculating. I don’t know exactly what implications are for unwinds, but I know they don’t wanna do it.
Jesus dude believe it or not I try to be smart financially and this wasn’t one of those times. Im aware of that and yes it was on a charge card that I pay off monthly.
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I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt here since I know that car buying is an emotional experience. I’ve made similar mistakes (on a 42k dollar car, no less), so I can relate.
If you fancy yourself smart with money, do everything you can to get rid of the deal and unwind. If you’ve already given off the lot then unfortunately there isn’t much that can be done unless by some stroke of genius luck the finance manager made a mistake on the contract. Pray pray pray.
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I’ll stop after this.
You and I have wildly different definitions of “financially smart.” This is not a impulse buy of a $1,000 guitar or a $3,000 watch or whatever. This is approaching six figures, depending on method taken to resolve.
I hope you’re able to return the car somehow. Good luck.
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Unfortunately, I agree.
I think this deal is not bad… it’s actually pretty great, I’d add… for the stealership, that is.
Joking aside, I echo the below. See if you can get them to keep the 4k and return the car. The way I see it, it’s 4k free that the dealership will earn. Beg your way out of it. Do whatever you need to do to get out of this. Talk to a lawyer or something.
Whatever you end up doing, do not finance the car.
I wish you the best of luck sincerely. Please let us know how this turns out. If you’re stuck with it, it’s done and don’t think about this anymore cause it won’t do you any good.
Also, think about putting the car on Turo but please do your due diligence.
I believe AFS prevents leased cars be used on subletting apps such as Turo as per the contracts. Not sure how they’d enforce it, though.
Can you tell me how you got this MF?
If you decide to finance with Audi FS, you may be able to refi soon after and lower your rate quite a bit.
You can join USSFCU by making a $50 donation to the US Capitol Historical Society.
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monthly rent fee=MF*(adjusted cap cost + residual value)
MF=monthly rent fee/(adjusted cap cost + residual value)
MF=(total rent charge/number of periods)/(adjusted cap cost + residual value)
MF=(15429.03/42)/(88772.76+44812.95)=367.36/133585.70=0.00275
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Based on the math, seems the MF is actually marked up. Deal keeps getting worse.
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If the car hasn’t been titled it’s as if it took a couple extra test drives. Can be sold as new. Once the paperwork goes to dmv it’s 
What I have heard in this situation before (best case) is, you don’t have to take THIS car, but you are taking A car.
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OP has 7k in negative equity. How is 4k gonna even out the deal? He would atleast have to pay 3k more and some premium for the dealership’s trouble.
I can’t be bothered to reread (again). What happened to the trade? Did he ground the prior lease early or can he still get the first mistake in this domino of mistakes back?
Oh I meant unwind the entire deal so the dealer pocketed the $4k just for unwinding the deal, trade and all.
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Is this for real, or a troll? How can someone be at a payment of around $15xx per month, but $17xx per month not be feasible? Can’t afford $200? So this is way out of their budget.
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@Gslush10 : Take a deep breadth , go for a jog or something and a cold shower etc.
When your mind is clear, sit down and understand what is sunk-cost fallacy. Once you are familiar with this, make a decision tree.
Option A: Keep the car, and fully calculate the cost.
Option B: Return the car, at thousands of dollars loss, and walk away from this deal. Maybe lease a X5 if you really want to.
You may realize, Option B is significantly cheaper
Damn I wish my watches only cost 3k 
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