Are these good lease deals? $0DAS for all: Accord Sport SE, Lexus is300 w/ red interior, Kia K5 GT-Line w/ red interior

holy hell.

HOW DOES THE DEAL ($396/mo with $0 DAS) COMPARE TO WHAT YOU HAVE FOUND IN YOUR RESEARCH?

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That’s not the deal, though. The research will be skewed because the trade equity is different at different dealers. Why would I go back to Honda and tell them to give me less for my trade??!

$3500 may be fair. I’ve been offered MORE and I’ve been offered LESS. Why would it behoove me to go with the lesser offer?

I’m out.
Math is not your thing.
Here, reach out to this broker:

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Le sigh. :disappointed:

Is there anyone that can convince me why this is not a good deal based on the trade equity? Thanks.

If you’re negotiating the trade as part of the deal, then the number they’re quoting for your trade is meaningless.

Let’s take leasing out of it to simplify it. Say you want to buy a car that stickers for $30k.

Dealer A says they’ll sell you the car for $25k and offers $5k in value for your trade. Your net cost ends up at $20k

Dealer B offers you $7500 for your trade, but what’s full sticker for the new car. Your net cost is $22,500.

If you buy from Deer A you didn’t “take less for your trade”, you saved $2500.

Equity numbers, when given as part of a new vehicle deal, are not comparable for the reasons above. Dealers will often over rob Peter to pay Paul and show more equity made up for with less discount.

Unless the dealer will give you $6k equity without you leasing a new car at the same time, they didn’t offer you $6k equity, just like they didn’t offer you $299 with $0 das.

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Soooo, it’s better to get a discount on the MSRP than to get more “equity” for my trade?

I understand what you all are conveying, but it seems you all are negating the fact that it’s still more money.

If they lower the MSRP on the basis of a “discount”, and then offer me less for my trade and come back with the same numbers of $299 a month and $0 out of pocket expense for MEEEEE, how is that any different and/or better?

No, it’s better to negotiate the two separately so you know which is which.

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It’s better than if someone offers you $329/mo with only your trade das, but there’s nothing to say if $299 is a good deal or not because you can’t actually compare it against anything useful.

Your original question was if it was a good deal or not, not if it’s a better deal than a different dealer offered. Which question do you want the answer to?

At this point, an answer to both would be great! I’m really wanting to make a decision today.

I feel like I’m being scrutinized on the method that I took. We all know that I would not have been offered 6k had k tried to negotiate the trade separately. So, based on the information that I’ve presented, barring any methodical approach that you all prefer here…talk to me.

You’re looking for something no one here wants to provide you because your methodology is to simply
Compare monthly payment and take the lowest number. We do not look at deals like that because there is an effective total lease cost we look at.

Leasing a car to sell after one year is not really the right way to go about things because the contract assumes you’ll pay for at least three, so it is financially structured as a three year expense.

At this point I’m tempted to say just take the accord if the dealer is offering you the most for your trade. I know you’re looking for a spoon fed answer and just want to feel vindicated that you got the best deal, but it’s been worse than pulling teeth to get the right numbers out of you and you don’t even have complete deal break downs.

Are you pressuring yourself to make a decision today or is the dealer doing that? If the dealer is doing that then I promise you you’re probably not getting the best deal in the first place.

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Maybe you should be posting on Reddit instead of here.

After 5 days of the OP ignoring all comments and still not providing any useful info, this thread will be slow-moded until OP provides actual useful numbers.

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You’re being scrutinized because you have no method. Nobody knows what you’re looking to accomplish. It’s not clear if you want the lowest price on a specific car, the nicest car in a given price range, the cheapest car in a given class, the best value for money, etc. It seems like all you really want is for us to give you a virtual high five for getting a “good lease”. However, if it’s not what you want to drive or want to spend, who cares? Also, you don’t know enough about leasing to actually extract the kind of deal that will impress people here.

My advice is to just treat it like you were going to the store to buy some shampoo or any other item like that. If there’s one you like more than the others, go to the store that sells it for the cheapest price. If there is another you like almost as much but is much cheaper, decide whether the savings is worth it.

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You claim no other dealers are offering you more than $1-2k, but then previously had an offer of $5k equity from a Toyota dealership?

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If you don’t want to go through the methodical approach to actually answer the question, then you’re wilfully choosing to be ignorant. If you don’t want to answer the question, stop asking it.

You’ve been given all the steps needed to be successful. Follow them, or don’t.

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I think these are the main problems. It;s completely unclear what criteria the OP is using to a define a “good deal” and, even if that criteria were presented, there are multiple confounding variables that make an analysis genuinely impossible.

Posters will often say you shop the deal or shop the car. In this case, it isn’t clear which one the OP prefers (esp since the OP has neither revealed a targeted total-lease cost nor a specific class of car).

Yeah, that’s sort of the only useful thing this site can provide. If you’re just looking for the lowest monthly literally independent of any other variables including the class of car, a down payment, and the total cost of the lease, then you don’t need advice. Just choose the deal w/ lowest monthly number.

Dealers play games with the lease sheets to make it appear like there are big discounts and savings when there are not. If I am buying a car and the dealer marks up the price of the car by 50% and then gives a 50% discount, I am getting the same deal as another dealer that didn’t mark up the price and didn’t offer a discount. That’s why people are saying it doesn’t matter the ‘equity’ number you are getting, especially if they are inflating the MSRP, adding packages you don’t need, marking up the money factor, and putting in other misc fees.

That’s why we recommend keeping the transactions separate. Ask what is the best they can do with $0 due at signing and no trade in. Once you have that number, figure out how much you can realistically get selling the car yourself or to a car buying service. Then go back to the dealer and see if they will get close or match what you would get if you sold it yourself instead of a trade in.

AFTER you have the lease sheet with no trade in, THEN you go to the dealer and ask what equity they give you, which goes directly to cap cost reduction. They wouldn’t need to give you a new lease sheet with different fees, money factor, MSRP, etc. They would say “you have xxx equity which is considered down payment, and your new monthly payment will be xxx.”

If all that sounds like too much trouble then like others said take the Accord deal and call it a day. :slight_smile:

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Enough good advice has been ignored and wasted while beating this horse to death.

Pretty sure the OP was just intentionally wasting everyone’s time. Once it was shown he was the red interior Camry guy, case closed.