I think most of the people here have been find with the jabs and have had fun giving them back to me. It is the internet so the mods can always just ban me for being a poophead if need-be.
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Hi everyone - so, I can start a new thread if needed, I don’t know if it’s ok to post follow up in here. I’ve not given up on this car and in spending a lot of time researching I realized there are a couple dealers in Florida who have this car marked down to 26,950 which, is MUCH lower than any local dealer (within a few hundred miles) will go and considerably under MSRP. I have miles I could fly out there and get the car and drive it back but…I wonder if anyone has ever done this, is there any more advised way of doing it (meeting the dealer halfway, etc.)? This is definitely something I’ve never considered but a couple hundred in gas (my flight would be free if I end up flying there) is worth saving thousands. Please let me know what you think of this strategy…thanks!
Did you get an actual lease quote or is this based off their website?
Their website…they have 15 Sport 2.0’s on the lot (about double what anyone has around here). Prices are actually listed on cars.com not their website - their site has that bs thing where to “unlock” the price you have to enter your contact info which I did not do…
Before you book your flight get an actual quote. What you’re seeing are likely for purchases.
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I did this with my Tacoma. I enjoyed it as a mini vacation. Biggest thing to worry about is mileage for the lease. If you are gonna be close on mileage based on your driving habits you may be better off shipping. I put on 1200 miles on my trip, which on a 10k/year lease is a lot. But my driving habits are low enough that I was okay with it.
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It doesn’t hurt to do this, now that you now price wise where you want to be. You’ll just get a call, so be ready with your offer and see if they play ball. My patience for games from the dealer is inversely proportional to distance so if they won’t give me a price, or a bad one I don’t bother to reply.
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Interesting - I thought dealers having different prices based on payment type was not an actual thing (as in - dealers try to say it is, and it is shady). Of course various incentives play in whether you are leasing or buying etc. but if a dealer tries to say the initial sale price of a vehicle will change depending on how I plan to pay for it - I will walk away. I learned that from a broker thread on here a while back but no idea what thread. You’re right tho - I need a sales price agreement in writing before I book any flights!
Very good point. I thought something similar - I would be opposed for a reason to go to Florida for a couple days! Shipping looked like it was thousands…so I thought driving back would be the best way to do it but yeah, 1000 miles give or take is a lot straight out of the gate on a lease!
Yep, you’re right. I am kind of annoyed they want to get me on the phone (not this dealer specifically but any dealer). I know many people who never even speak to the dealership until they finalize everything. A couple of the dealers are aggressively refusing to talk price until I call them. Maybe I’m being petty but it seems ridiculous and a good way for them to drive people away (pun intended). And yes, if I’m traveling hundreds or thousands of miles and they want to play games on the price - I gotta walk away.
The advertised price more than likely includes ALL incentives, including ones that you might not qualify for (e.g., military/grad/loyalty/conquest/etc). The price also usually does not include destination, dealer doc fee (I’ve heard quite high in FL), etc either.
I live in Northern VA and have purchased cars in CT & NJ. My parents live in CT and have purchased cars in CT, NJ, MD, VA. Certain areas have more competition than others and can be worth the drive
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I can’t imagine the discount would be so much more on an Accord to pay for a >500mi trip. I like to limit my extended range shopping to what I’d be willing to drive in a one-way rental and back on the same day. I guess it helps I have the SF Bay area in that range, not LA but decent.
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Some dealerships have policies in place to avoid people just bidding quotes against each other. In my experience, that worked years ago, but dealers lately aren’t giving aggressive quotes in writing. When negotiating for my parents’ Pilot this week, I said that other dealerships wouldn’t quote me in writing, and salesperson said that makes sense, they don’t either.
My strategy is evolving from trying to dissect every last number to gathering info (mf, residual, incentives, etc), plugging them into the LH calculator, and then calculating what my target price is. If they want to make the MF sky high and discount the car, I honestly don’t care as long as the final price is cheaper
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Sometimes I’d rather talk to them over the phone, make an offer, and get answers quick and let them know I’m serious rather than typing an email and waiting a day or two or receiving no response at all. Tell them you’re willing to take a flight on X day if you make this happen…
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The lowest I can get any dealer within 500 miles is 28,160. This FL dealer has it advertised at 26,950. Even if I can’t get them any lower…1200 is a lot. Being in the middle of the country has it’s advantages…solid deals and competition on vehicles is NOT one of them lol.
They odds of them selling you the car for that before incentives is about 1 in 100.
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I agree with both of you saying sometimes getting straight to the point over the phone is the best way to go and avoids bidding war concerns that they understandably have. That said - I can’t see not having it in writing before traveling any considerable distance tho, right? I mean I just would not trust they wouldn’t pull the rug out from under me and then they will know they really have me over a barrel b/c I traveled quite a way to make it happen so I’m overly invested at that point.
Maybe I need a broker at this point, I don’t know. I don’t need a broker to help me get the “numbers” …I have already done all the leg work on that. I need someone who knows the dealerships in other areas tho, I definitely do not have that knowledge…
Don’t think that $26950 number would be legit once you factor in doc fees and add back any incentives you don’t qualify for… Have you checked DC metro area? You won’t find the best deals advertised for everyone…
I’d imagine they’d be able give the quote in writing if you’re willing to put a deposit down or do their online credit app…
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True - I’m sure you’re right they are including incentives I would not qualify for (military, new grad, etc.). I haven’t check any specific regions outside my own - just the big car sites (cargurus, cars, edmunds, truecar, etc. etc.).
I’d definitely be willing to do a deposit if they are willing to give it to me in writing…
That’s $1200 residualized, so more like $500 to your lease cost.
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