I normally wouldn’t want to put anything down based on everything I’ve learned, my situation is a bit different since I have a relative who is willing to put the money down towards a car but not give me the money to make higher monthly payments. I explained to them how leasing is different when it comes to money down but they said they’d prefer to do it that way.
Yeah I’m already going 3 hours away for a dealer that isn’t marking it up AND even has one. This one is still on its way, not even at the lot yet
Unfortunately it looks like you don’t have a vehicle to trade to offset this crazy market. Do you qualify for anything else? Maybe conquest? I think GM has a conquest now.
Also GM might offer 0% for 48 months or so, I know this is leasing forum, but maybe run numbers for buy. With 4-6K down and 0% might be worth it to buy.
Oh, I am quite aware. That’s why I find it amusing when people give you advice that was good maybe 2 years ago, but clearly have no idea what the current market is like.
Unfortunately the only thing I qualify for is the student discount. I just moved down to Florida for dental school so I only need a car while I am here since I am not sure where I will go when I am done. The reason I am not going with purchasing is because in 3 years after I am done with school and I consider selling the car I will likely be stuck trying to move it quickly and taking a loss and then cover the gap with the loan. I am also assuming car prices will go down by then which will make my loss worse
That the best term to look at generally speaking (the best combo of RV and MF), so you are off to a good start.
The keys to getting a good deal on one of these are simple, but not easy (as it will take some good old fashioned digging around).
You need to find a dealer with an LT1 on the lot, or incoming (with a foreseeable ETA).
You need to obtain a GM Supplier code. Beg and plead with anyone to give you one who may have one!
Now…you need to hope/convince the dealer(s) who have the cars to do a GM Supplier deal. Honestly, most right now wont. But, a number of them will. And, some folks have gotten very very lucky and found a dealer to do GM Supplier pricing WITHOUT a supplier code. But, I wouldnt bank on this.
Ideally, youll also find a dealer that honors the sub $75 doc fee that is supposed to be part of the Supplier program. Most wont (esp in FL).
Lastly, and youve already figured this out, you need base MF (or a larger discount to account for a marked up MF).
A sample for a straight up supplier deal at base MF and no dealer fee is linked below.
Keep you eyes peeled here for the latest RV and MF info. The mods at Edmunds have access to this data and are awesome. I believe the current RV/MF on a 39/10 is 61%/0.00045. These have degraded some lately.
And check here for incentive info, filter under “LT1”, NOT “1LT”.
I’ve reached out to as many people as I knew, and no one is really in the space where I could get the supplier pricing, I tried through Costco as well but all of the Costco dealers did not have an LT1 in stock or any on the horizon. The best “deal” I had gotten was on a completely bare-bones one in Michigan which was 4k DAS and 350 a month, but after I accounted for bringing the car here through shipping or flying and driving, it made more sense to get this one.
Also this is an Auto-Nation so I don’t think they’d give me straight supplier, I’ve tried pretty hard to get something discounted but no one is really doing it, and I do kind of need a car. I’ve been looking since mid December and it’s been pretty stressful.
Another issue I am worried about, is if I wait till February and end up with worse RV and MF.
Without any other lease/conquest rebate, youll be down $1500 right off the bat, so you have to account for that in leveling your deal vs others. Theres no way around not qualifying for that one (unless you had a co-signer who would qualify and who would also sign on your car).
With supplier, there is also an additional $750 rebate as well, in addition to the supplier pricing, so you can see how this stuff stacks up. Very few folks (outside of a rare few who have gotten true employee pricing) have gotten anywhere on one of these without Supplier and the stacked rebates.
Lastly…you are in FL (as am I)…and this is not prime LT1 hunting grounds
EDIT - And I see the car/dealer you have this quote from…def def not prime area for getting an LT1.
Yeah, Florida has been really tough everyone is marking them up and there’s only like 15 at any one point in the whole state. Unfortunately doesn’t seem like I qualify for much but compared to all the other cars I have been shopping for. Like I was getting quotes for a corolla at 4k down 390 a month, a sentra 2k down 500 a month, a malibu 5k down 370 a month. Which was insane for the amount of car I was getting. That s why I am so set on this car now
All I am saying is run the numbers. This deal you will pay over $2K in finance charges, plus $695 acquisition fee not to mention whatever dealer service fees are for $799.
Since you don’t qualify for any lease incentives, it may be better for you. You might just find a dealer to do a straight up MSRP deal without the BS fees and get the GM financing.
Plus in 3 years if you want to get out to a company like Carvana or such, you don’t have to worry about third party buyout bullcrap.
Just a thought
They won’t budge at all on the MF or offer me a discount to compensate for it. This is an autonation, I’ve been reading a few other posts and it seems that Autonation standard practice is marking up MF. They told me straight to my face, that we won’t go down past this price if you don’t want it it’s fine. This is the second cheapest one in all of Florida, so I think I might have to pull the trigger since I need a car.
Holy shit though I can’t believe the balls on these dealers lately, they’re just 100% willing to forget about you in this market. They are really ruining their reputation during this pandemic, just when it was starting to get a bit better too.
Wouldn’t the taxes be the major extra cost of financing this car rather than leasing it?
So just looking at your findings, I started looking for an LT1 myself. I had to call about 8-9 dealers today and got the figures from each of them.
I found one with an MSRP of $42545. This is the best deal I could find around me. I am located in Midwest. I have included all the extra packages in the calculator link:
This is what I am getting:
2022 Chevrolet Camaro LT1
Technology Package $900.00
RS Package $1,495.00
Dual-mode exhaust $995.00
Design Package 1 $1,970.00
Rapid Blue $395.00
Paddle shift automatic transmission $1,595.00
Sale Price: 40959 + 699(admin fee) + 1698 (aftermarket) - 750 (GM discount) = 42606
I am yet to argue on the numbers. I believe I can get the sale price to go further down but I am not sure how much. They have added an extra $1698 of hidden charges on the lease for “aftermarket”. I would have to try and get that removed from the sale price.
Would it be worth going for as my first new car?
That’s great that you’re finding a car under MSRP man, wish I could find one similar near me! Overall looks like there’s not much you can do unless you also qualify for the student discount, or can get supplier pricing (and a dealer willing to give you it). Looks like you’re dealing with an honest dealer unlike me.
I’m going to keep it real with you though this may be a lot of car for your first car, 455 hp is a lot and I know how I drove with my first car. I know it’s cool and it’s awesome as a first car, and you know yourself best, but please be responsible. I lost a friend to his crazy driving way too young.
This is not a good first car… I am a somewhat seasoned driver and it still has me second guessing at times. Stick to something that likes to keep its tail straight then slowly move on up to a V8.
Stupid fun though: LT1 V8 Doughnut - YouTube
Maybe look in IL away from Chicago Area dealers, there’s definitely some LT1 out there without markups. Search for inventory through Chevy inventory since in-transit don’t show up on auto trader or cars.com
First car 450+ Hp, Midwest, 245s and constant snow. You must have steel balls or incredible self control to not floor it. Be careful the stock 245s with 450 Hp is defo a gamble as a first car
Thanks for all the pointers guys.
I should have mentioned this in the previous comment. It wouldn’t be my first car but would be my first new car. I currently own a 2011 Chevy Malibu. I like to think I am a decent driver and I think my anxiety should allow me to be in control most of the time. I think I’ll be keeping my 2011 Malibu as a backup. In case of snowy days. Plus there is a possibility I might move out of Midwest in the next year or so. If things don’t go as planned, I might just get out of the lease later in the year or next year.
Currently, for some weird reason, my heart is set on getting myself a gift in the form of an LT1 Camaro. I don’t think it is a financially good decision. The alternative is to just finance a CX-5 Signature. But I am leaning towards the Camaro. If my numbers were slightly better… … … .
If you got a Malibu I don’t understand why don’t you qualify for $1500?
Also where did you get the Acq Fee of $999?
For IL area it shows when I select “ I/We currently own or lease a 2008 or newer GM vehicle (Chevrolet)” it shows a $1500 rebate
In IL it looks as if GM set it at $500 instead of your $750
This is on buy click drive