Hey Everyone - have a custom order Porsche Cayenne S E-Hybrid that’s at the dealer and almost ready for pick up. Overall details:
Northern California Bay Area
2025 Cayenne S E-Hybrid
MSRP: $156,165
I was originally planning to pay the car cash or 1/2 down 1/2 finance (6.09% at my bank).
Dealer just told me though that the $7500 rebate can get passed onto the cap cost of the car if I do a lease, and that it’s common for people to do this to get that savings and then pay the car off after 6 months.
I checked rate finder and it looks like the latest lease info for a 10k/36:
Residual: 58%
MF: .0035
I’m waiting for the Finance person to call me and give me the actual deal, but checking in on any advice for the best way to handle that call.
I was thinking of saying:
1/ Finance if they can match my bank’s rate and offer an incentive on MSRP
2/ Lease if they do 58% with .0035 MF with the $7500 passed onto the cap cost (with the plan to buy the car outright after 6 months)
3/ Cash if neither of the above make sense to me
It sounds like the sales person is giving you something good to consider. He / she is correct on the 7500 rolled into the lease but not an option if you purchase.
Naturally it’s a totally different deal. You would still want to lock in the MSRP and fight for a good rate which I assume they can accomplish in a lease deal on a brand new car.
My gut tells me if you can lease you should. Heck maybe even work the deal so good you don’t have to use your cash.
Who knows after 3 years of leasing you might even just give it back.
I am sure someone with more Porsche lease knowledge will chime in. But this sounds like the sales guy is trying to do the right thing for you
The $7,500 lease cash comes from Porsche Finance, not the dealer. The RV is set in stone. So is buyrate MF. But any MF markup is almost immaterial if you’re buying out the lease in 3-4 months. No need to wait for 6.
So everything you’re proposing to negotiate is fixed or immaterial.
Did you negotiate a selling price relative to MSRP or a discount off MSRP? That’s the one thing to negotiate here. But the time for doing that was at the time of ordering.
Now you’re going to have to be a d!ck by pretending to walk away if you don’t get a discount. Or accept that you implicitly agreed to MSRP and waived a discount.
Yeah you’re absolutely right - I should have asked for a discount at time of order off MSRP. That being said, I won’t sweat too much as I think all things considered the $7500 off and buy-out after 3-4 months as you said gets me to a spot I’m comfortable with.
I would go with a lease to capture the $7500, but you should be able to find a finance APR lower then 6.09% – I know multiple CUs offering 4.99% or lower at 72mo terms. I doubt you are going to see any discount from that huge MSRP on a pre-tariff unit (did you check every option?). This feels like a @holeydonut thread, it has the right cylinder to MSRP ratio.
You shouldn’t treat the 7,500 as found money/suddenly making it a good deal. It’s available to everyone so the real question you need to ask is MSRP for this vehicle a good deal or not.
lol the moment I saw the “E” I just assumed y’all could handle this one.
There’s a $150k MSRP Base Cayenne for sale just north of San Francisco. For real. No E-hybrid or S or GTS or anything.
The same showroom has a ‘24 GT3 RS that was originally sold in Beverly Hills and got in an accident at 10 miles on the odometer. Even with a dirty carfax it’s listing $130k over MSRP.
Then you have @li8625 who couldn’t SAL his Taycan 4S with like $600 monthlies.
I bought a Toyota RAV4 Prime XSE in 2024 for a family member and this is how we did it. Two very different cars, but the same concept. Here are some tips:
Negotiate a solid discount off MSRP regardless of the 7500. That doesn’t cost the dealer anything. Let them mark up the rate by 100 basis points and tell him to make it up on the discount. The payment will sky rocket, but we don’t care because we’re attempting to buy out.
Lease for a term of 36/7500 as you obviously plan on buying out immediately —> don’t need the miles. Also, the 7500 will cover inception fees, and the rest will serve as a cap cost reduction, so you can do a true “sign and drive”.
Try Logix or another credit union and get a lower rate.
Buyout immediately before the first month’s payment (your payoff will go live). Logix made us wait a few weeks after the first payment due to them needing the registration mailed, but another bank may not require this.
You just got yourself a solid discount off MSRP because the dealer sees themselves making $ on the backend, and you also got the tax credit up front.
Another consideration here for OP is if this is his local dealer he has an established relationship with and wants to keep the relationship, he should probably wait the 3-4 months so the dealer doesn’t get charged back
@holeydonut wow, had to look up that $150k base cayenne just now and yep, had to be Marin. Makes me feel a tiny bit better splashing $156 for the S E-Hybrid.
Lots of good comments in here - I’ll try and negotiate on MSRP and stick to the plan of lease and pay-off in full after 3-4 months (trying to build a relationship with dealer for more fun goodies down the road).
Yeah, I feel like that’s how Porsche works now… the brand actually pulled off that concept that the buyer “needs” the dealership’s advocacy to gain access to desirable products… and bargain hunting isn’t the way into that club.
It sounds like there’s no way to just jump the queue without some massive spending. Like you need to start with a Macan/Cayenne, work your way to some base Cayman or Turbo CUV, then maybe show you know how to handle a non-GT Carrera, and eventually they’ll actually think about letting you get a GT car.
When I picked up my Taycan CPO, I got to hear the complaining that the CPO leases were attracting poor people who should be in CDJR or Honda, but now are bothering them at the Porsche showroom lololol. They should set up a shed in back to handle the paperwork for the poors, to keep them away from the normal Porsche clients.
If I go down the path of lease (dealer is passing full $7500 credit on) and then buy it out after 3-4 monthly payments, at that point do I have to buy with cash outright or can I finance with a CU like PenFed for the remaining balance?
In 3-4 months, the payoff is going to Porsche Financial Services. They don’t care where you get the money.
I don’t know specifically about PenFed, but with 1st Norcal you can just go in there and say “hey guys help me refinance my vehicle.” You’d give 1st Norcal the account details at Porsche Financial Services, and 1st Norcal would pay off the account balance directly to PFS and then 1st NorCal would add themselves to the title as the new lienholder.
Then 1st Norcal will tell you to pay them the new recurring monthly used-car loan payment.
Where you could run into problems is when PFS then goes back to the dealership that originated the lease and says "sorry ya’ll, the incentive you got from PFS to originate this lease with vvk826 is being reversed because vvk826 paid off the lease too early.
I want to believe the origination fee to enter the lease is enough to make normal lenders happy, but Porsche isn’t normal.
