Got another $86k fully loaded $335 Triple Nickel black wheels (personally I think this is the best build). Northern part of the SE and needs to be signed in person.
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Did you come across anything worthwhile in east LA County/IE while looking for your AZ deal?
Any idea if that dealer still has more units and can replicate?
Redlands has a 24 Scat they are motivated to move. Van Nuys had only RT with no packages, but were highly motivated to move, but couldn’t beat my deal. Aaron CDJR also was great to chat with but wouldn’t beat my deal. I find the dealers with lots on the lot aren’t willing to move because 1 won’t make a difference but lots with 1 - 3 are the sweet spot. DCH Temecula got down to ~130/130, but had 3k in add ons they refused to move. they might be motivated now to remove or signifcantly reduce.
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My AZ one only has a Scat left. Those are harder to move at sub 200 because the MSRP discount needs to be in the high teens, because the Scats have 2k less rebates from stellantis and most don’t have the extra 2k overage cash.
Also, check Claremont CDJR. They have like 25 on the lot still.
Poway has a couple. Including a “Balls Deep” spec.
Tried here. They’re not moving much.
This is for a 24 or 25? Think a dealer would try to match this price? I spoke to one a few hours ago in SoFla and they said the best they could do was in the high 700s.
Those are the ones I’ve been going after 
$86k
Agree with Holydonut though, these things will be bowling ball dust collectors. New CFO dgaf about EVs and incentives will be gone. Any dealer sitting on 24s is stupid.
2024
ETA, and check Georgia, much better than Florida across the board, don’t waste time with Florida dealers.
They’re not dealing on it. Lol. They think it’s a gold mine.
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Previous poster said high $700s from a Florida dealer an hour ago, I’m paying that for a well optioned 2025 Taycan
I wanted to steal one, but $200 was as low as I could get.
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I wonder how many times @ElectricEliminator has had to see this message and get to stare at a lump of junk-EV in his garage.
@z0lt3c , these EVs are trash dude. Doesn’t matter EQS, Taycan, Tesla, Dodge… they all just pop dumb errors and sit there or stall out in motion when they become inoperable.
It’s happened a few times. It can be managed and mitigated, not that anyone should have to do that. My recommendation to anyone is to keep a jump pack in the frunk. Jumping the 12v battery from the front terminals has managed to solve any “bricking” issues I have had. There were three of them in total, only one of them required a jump. The other two just went away on their own. I still don’t regret getting it but it makes it kind of hard to trust, especially in the hands of other family members. The less serious issues with the Keyfobs being completely useless most of the time bother me a lot more.
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BTW the car magically unbricked itself and seems to drive normally. They literally didn’t do anything except tow it out of the garage and to the local dealership service bay and it just turned on. They put a new 12v battery in just in case though.
Anyway he doesn’t plan on ever putting the full family in the EV where it has to be relied upon to go a long way. Smart guy.
It’s 100% a software issue. If the 12v drops slightly the entire car takes a giant dump sometimes and will eventually realize that nothing is wrong. It is supposed to prevent this from happening by tending the 12v from the HV battery but for some reason that operation doesn’t always work. Jordan Rose is a Mopar tech on YouTube who actually has one of these cars for himself, he’s very transparent about the situation and how to handle issues. I definitely recommend giving him a follow. Virtually all of the issues this car is dealing with have TSBs already and fixes supposedly in the works but who knows when they will actually be released.
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So getting one of these 12 v trickle chargers and plugging in once in a while would be a good idea?
In theory, keeping the car on a 12v batter tender would reduce the occurrence of issues, if the root cause that’s been suggested is to be believed.
I have a Wagoneer S that uses the same 12v battery. I’ve had the lobster and turtle come up a few times in the three months I’ve had it. Usually turning off and turning back on the car would fix it and make it go away. I had that process fail me once big time. It would not go away in the morning before work and I did the 12v battery disconnect. They went away, but something must have not went right as when I went to the car when I went to leave work hours later 12v battery was dead. Only thing I can think of is the liftgate would not close and would give a few beeps so I had to manually close it. That was the only out of the ordinary issue after disconnecting the 12v battery.
Luckily I was able to jump it which got the car to start again, but had same error messages come up. After letting it sit connected to the car that jumped it for a few minutes and a few off and on cycles the turtle went away and I was able to drive home with no issue. Lobster was gone the next day and neither have come back since.
All this to say from what I have read and experienced its a 12v battery low voltage issue and the car’s software response to it. If the 12v battery voltage is low or drops low for what ever reason the software throws these errors as a warning and fail safe. In Facebook group I saw people posted about a bluetooth battery monitor from Amazon that they use to track the voltage and state of charge of the 12v battery. I installed it on mine. Took less than 5 minutes to do. Link is below.
I didn’t want to go through the hassle yet of trying to get the 12v battery replaced at the dealer or spending close to $300 to replace it myself with the H3 Die Hard EV battery from Advanced Auto Parts without trying to monitor the 12v battery first. I also now keep a 10mm socket and wrench and a jumper starter now just in case something were to go awry again.