I think OP needs to request to close this thread.
No one in their mind will take this lease and only going to get flamed more and more. OP clearly doesn’t want to do the legwork with help of a broker to get him out of this shitty deal.
Edit: Seems like many suckers paying over $1,000 on a 430 but convertibles
Not in Texas where you generally pay full tax on the sale price less rebates.
First time I tried to cancel an add on I got suckered into, my salesperson also said no.
Then I contacted his sales manager, and the finance manager - and got it cancelled and refunded.
Threaten to leave a bad review on google if you have to. Try harder Sir!
I’d recommend trying to find the best lease deal you possibly can on any car, being defined as:
Then try to offload this car as a trade in on the new lease deal.
Example lease this month to look into, a $56 a month for the Ioniq 5 Standard Range. If you are then lucky, you might be able to get your payment down to a $200-500 a month range with the negative equity roll-in.
That or take a 15k haircut and offload to someone on this forum.
They didn’t even give you an M Sport? That’s foul
Blast the employer! Name them here
COUGH EQS COUGH
Lol
I briefly looked into what you’ve mentioned here. So since you don’t have a US credit, they might charge a lot of interest on your lease. You also see some pre-owned dealerships advertising no credit finances which I assume it’s the same idea. Maybe that’s why you got an insane number.
That’s been my understanding as well. I get that dealers are generally devious, but I visited no less than 5 dealerships while shopping, BMW being two of them. Not a single car was even close to the online quote I got. I accepted the reality that my visa status automatically put me in a bad rate situation.
Audi, Genesis, BMW, Toyota, etc. I was looking at comparable cars (~ $50-60k range). The lowest I got was $980 for a mid feature BMW 330i for 30 months. I also couldn’t really target 36 month due to visa reasons.
I already am working on options with the broker in this thread. Other than that, I’ll keep the post up cause there’s always scope for negotiation. Anything’s better than paying the full negative equity
What’s the name of the dealership that won the lottery?
I’d give @IAC $1000 and let him help you get a lower payment as well as cancel all of your contracts. They’re selling you a bill of goods and BMW has dealer clawback in the first 90 days I believe. If you want to deliver an F you right back to them, get into something new before 90 days.
This is rough oof, would echo dumping the negative equity in something that can be buried, no point on badge hunting you need to find something to dump this into. Mitusibishi Outlander, Dodge Durango, Mustang Mach-E i dont know what vehicle has crazy incentives that could eat this… F-150?
Just about everything else under the sun.
Let’s give the OP a break. While a gun was not to his head, this is the equivalent of signing up an elderly widow for an expensive annuity. Just because you can doesn’t mean you should. Pigs get fat, hogs get slaughtered. The dealer telling the OP he cannot cancel his contracts and they’re required tells me everything I need to know. I would unapologetically get into something new and clawback every penny of theirs.
Yeah, who cares about these dealers? They aren’t honest or loyal, why should we be?
I bought a wrangler and the dealer said “you cannot sell/buyout the car for the first 90 days as per CCAP terms”. I know he was lying because the MF was raised by 42 points. I traded in that shit 13 days after getting it lol
Let me get to the next employer first, lol
It was actually 5 dealers, 4 brands, all with the same exact markup compared to what I see online.
My international profile seems to heavily impact these rates, despite “very good” credit score in the US.
I pushed hard against every dealer, none of them budged, despite me showing them the online quotes and what not. I assumed (incorrectly I suppose), that this was an immutable condition of being a visa holder.