Even at 30 months it’s hard to fathom isn’t it? Wouldn’t mind getting a look at that contract to see what all kinds of goodies got thrown in.
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I mean if he can cancel those contracts like wheel tire, paint protection, etc… maybe it will be worth it but still would have a massive payment but overall fewer payments.
I think Mercedes adjusted my payment adter I canceled wheel tire instead of me not having my last 2 payments.
I would hope there was SOME negative equity 
I think we can all agree that OP was seriously hosed by the dealer here. @Sarthak_Joshi I strongly suggest you let @IAC help you here. Worst case scenario you can swap into a better vehicle for close to the same payment, which will be easier to swap out of later on.
Best case scenario he saves you some money and helps you cancel some of those extra contracts you shouldn’t have purchased, and also helps swap you into an easier-to-trade lease.
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I think even if he gets another BMW with negative equity, he will still have same payment and a SLIGHTLY better car. Looks like this isn’t an x-drive so maybe he can get an x-drive.
I would still highly suggest getting EQS/EQE to soften the blow. As long there is access to charging.
Fair point. Either way we agree OP should not stay in this lease with all those extra BS warranties.
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I’ve enjoyed it… I got butt fucked by a company, which is putting me in this situation.
Anyway, I’m rigorously exploring my options right now, all the while getting back to stable ground.
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Also, yeah I haven’t. I’m not from the US and this the first car I’ve driven (other than test drives) that is my own. The previous ones were, to put it simply, cheap.
We all have to start somewhere my Indian brother.
Most of my cousins are in same boat. They see these nice cars and jump on it with no research. My cousin paying $1300 for his Tesla Model Y… I told him I have etron, and 2 eqs that don’t even equal to $1400. Over $300K in cars for a cheaper payment than his $80K model Y lol
They may have taken advantage of someone who didn’t do their research but no one put a gun to your head.
And regardless of whether it was a bad deal or not, you should have known your own finances. Even if you’re driving a Taycan “Turbo” for $1,250 a month and getting laid off means you’re immediately scrambling to offload your car, that’s not a good sign.
You need to accept your own responsibility in this situation otherwise it will keep happening again and again.
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I did enough research to estimate a fair rainy day fund, monthly finances, etc. But sometimes, the most comprehensively sourced estimates, can turn out to be wrong, with exceptional anomalies. This isn’t a usual case of a bad economy that’s being going on for many people. Since i cannot go into detail, the only thing I’ll say is, I had a 1 in a million bad moment (unethical, to say the least), I can afford to lose this car by paying off the negative equity, but I’d rather not. The only lesson here is to increase my risk taking capacity, before taking on more risk and do more research/slow down before purchasing a car, such that I don’t send “bad signals” on an online forum.
I mean, the least risk would be to not buy a car until I got the cash to pay all of it, but that disrupts my near-term personal goals, and takes away intangible benefits. We all take balanced risks.
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An incentive smaller than the NE might be enough to tempt someone on SAL or facebook or Craig’s
Especially locally if they don’t have to pay tax in Texas again.
The rest of your post sounds like pure delusion. But hey if you’re lying to yourself, you’re only fooling yourself. Doesn’t matter to me. Peace out and GL.
Cancel all add ons asap. Don’t waste time. Prioritize it.
Then reevaluate numbers and next best step can be determined.
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I’ve tried. 10 days after I got the car, I tried to cancel everything. The simple answer was “no”. I don’t know what more to do after that.
Who did you talk to?
What does your contract actually say?
The contract lists the MSRP, and all the add-ons. Shows the esimated buyout price, rent they charge for the period and depreciation.
I asked them whether I can remove the extra warranties, and protections, they said “no” and that it’s “mandatory on all BMW leases for the international professional program”. Basically, since I’m on visa, I cannot negotiate out of this.
I can only do so much after that. Once the contract is signed, it’s really up to them.
What does your contract say about that?
That sounds like a dealer making something up and then telling you that you can’t cancel so they keep their cut. Usually there is some documentation that comes with those programs that list the actual terms and conditions. That’s what you need to be referencing, not the dealership.
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So you’re being led astray here. Don’t let the brand (BMW) blind you and the dealer to pull a fast one on you.
Don’t think the dealer’s word on this - you need to read the documentation of the packages/addons that you bought and go from there. There are no “packages” that are “required” and “mandatory” for you to lease a car from BMW.
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I’ve seen fellow brokers in the low effective $500s per month on service loaner leases and a few in so cal such as https://www.bmwbuenapark.com/commercial-used/BMW/2023-BMW-430i-d4d3fa8b0a0e0a9237d512a3028e5132.htm
So on leases it’s possible to get close to $500, albeit not “new”
I don’t want people to think it’s unheard of and be misinformed
Do the add ons have a number or separate company to call to remove it?
Or is it a dealer add on?
If it’s the first one, the dealer may not help you