The goal should be to sell the car to whoever has the highest offer. You can check carmax carvana GMTV,Algo nation as well
I know I’m gonna chop this up but here it goes. I understand there are deals. MSRP. Discount. Incentives. Interest. Taxes. Dealer fees. Residual value. Money factor. I get all that. Not one sheet gives ALL PAID & OWED. Here’s another example. I did what others said. Kept trade out. However, 0 down is what I’m looking at but my do $2,500 down from trade difference. So….
Numbers. I realize may get better on 54,430. Better on discount 2,221.50. List as example $795.81 @ $2,500 down for 36 months. And other numbers listed accordingly. My question comes….
If it’s sell price 52,208.50. Give $2,500 at signing. Pmt $795.81. The way I read is $2,500 only amt get me driving. Yet other column:
First pmt 795.81
Fees 1,1118
Down pmt $2,500
Upfront sales tax 46.31
Total due $4961.96
Balance due $2,500
Are these numbers in payment? I don’t wanna sign thinking $2,500 get car, yet sign saying I owe these other amounts. Christ, I don’t even know why they have 2 $2,500 and $4,961.96
Seriously hope that makes sense
Dealer CRM’s give sheets like that that make things very confusing, I get it.
Sometime’s it says $5k due at signing, but it’s actually less, because some of it is rolled in.
A dealer will usually tell you the monthly payment and actual amount due at signing.
It looks to me like this is 795 with 2500 due, which generally sounds horrible for a 54k car…
2 Likes
Ya see what I mean. $2,500 got that. But $4,961 also due. And even more confusing, another $2,500.
So I’m like….is it $2,500 plus $4,961 and another $2,500
Man, seriously….needs to be a law for these con artists
1 Like
I see some calculations giving “great number”….but looking at actual numbers….taking a lot off, discounting a lot……of course your number will be low. I get that. I just don’t wanna sign crap….only to find “WHY DID I SIGN THAT CRAP MOMENT”
I’m happy to keep helping here and trying to explain how all of this works, but I think your life would be much easier if you just used a broker, whether it’s myself or anyone.
I’ve already offered you a deal more than $100/mo less than what you’re getting on the X3. Why even bother continuing to to stress over this. For a $599 fee I am giving you a deal saving you thousands.
4 Likes
Just listen to others and go with a broker. To buy and sell. There are many here to choose from. Painfull reading…
6 Likes
Stop thinking and stop talking to that dealership. Take the advice from the people in this thread and use a broker and be happy.
5 Likes
If you want to understand things, stop looking at deal sheets for anything but numbers to plug into the Leasehackr calculator. Gather the residual, base money factor and rebates from Edmunds or the Ratefindr tool here. The deal sheets are useful for gathering incidental stuff like dealer doc fees, dmv fees and miscellaneous taxes (tire tax if applicable, etc.) I may have said something similar here in the past but one of the things I have come love about this place is the ability to acquire a superpower where you are able to bend metal and glass using nothing but your mind (and a calculator). I like to start with a billet, if you will. A full MSRP deal with zero discount, the rebates I qualify for and whatever taxes and fees are applicable/generally accepted. From there it is time to sculpt and mill that billet into something that resembles a good deal by adjusting the dealer discount of the car before rebates in the calculator. I can search posts here to see what target discount % should look like. Sometimes its fun to just keep taking money off the car to see what it would take to get it to a payment I’d be happy with. It that discount % doesn’t sound totally insane, it may be worth pursuing.
4 Likes
Like I said. Understand better numbers out there. Looked at 2 more this morning. Same car. Same payment. Same everything. Yet, list $5k due at signing. And these papers say no more down. So I’m like how can that be. Broker would do what. Get a deal at local dealer? Pay them to do what. Contact a dealer I pick….or go to one they work best deal out?
Most all of us work with partner dealers where we just know what kind of deal we can give you with no negotiating. You work with one of us, we find you what you want, we setup everything ahead of time for you, and then you just pickup and sign on the deal that pre-arranged for you. You’re welcome to call me at 516-416-5481 if you want an in-depth explanation of the process.
Your dealer is at like 690 with 5k das and Scott is at 560 with 5k das. You don’t see any difference there?
1 Like
Not an idiot. I see that. My ultimate question, and ONLY question here AS I’VE SAID SEVERAL TIMES. I know there are better and much better ways to do this. My only question was: how can 2 identical cars, payments, etc be the same yet one says $5k due at signing others not. Been answered several times already and I get it. All this other info I understand is available. But it’s a give and take. I’m not there yet.
You’re annoying me now. You asked for advice, we provided. Clearly you can’t get the deal you’re looking for on your own so a broker is your best bet yet you continue to ignore everyone telling you to use a broker.
Walk in the dealership for a test drive. Good luck, have fun. 
The 5k das includes roughly a 2500 down payment which is not necessary. If you remove that, payment goes up a little and it would be. Payment plus 3500 das
I don’t see how your getting 40k from a dealer on a 21x3 either…
Most people on here just want to help out and not watch you pay more than you should
It doesnt hurt to reach out to Adam to get an offer on your car and it’ll certainly save you time and stress (as a former cop I’m sure you dont want/need any more stress) if you let Scott help you secure a really solid deal - can personally attest to his professionalism and he consistently offers great deals here which have helped many save thousands!
I would ask for all quotes to be given as “0 due at sale/signing” or “0 total drive-offs” with everything rolled in, and compare numbers that way
take any/all equity as a full check to you
2 Likes
say 0 due at signing. due at signing and down are 2 different terms
1 Like
Tell them you’re not paying one penny out of pocket at signing and to capitalize all up front costs into the payment. they can’t force you to put down anything
1 Like
The sheets can say anything.
I understand the question you want answered, but there are ways a dealer can show a 2k discount and actually be giving you $0 off the car.
For people on here, the focus is less on what the dealer sheet says, and more about how you calculate it out. You get their deal to match in the calculator, so you figure out what it REALLY is, and then you negotiate from there.
2 Likes