Most all of us work with partner dealers where we just know what kind of deal we can give you with no negotiating. You work with one of us, we find you what you want, we setup everything ahead of time for you, and then you just pickup and sign on the deal that pre-arranged for you. You’re welcome to call me at 516-416-5481 if you want an in-depth explanation of the process.
Your dealer is at like 690 with 5k das and Scott is at 560 with 5k das. You don’t see any difference there?
1 Like
Not an idiot. I see that. My ultimate question, and ONLY question here AS I’VE SAID SEVERAL TIMES. I know there are better and much better ways to do this. My only question was: how can 2 identical cars, payments, etc be the same yet one says $5k due at signing others not. Been answered several times already and I get it. All this other info I understand is available. But it’s a give and take. I’m not there yet.
You’re annoying me now. You asked for advice, we provided. Clearly you can’t get the deal you’re looking for on your own so a broker is your best bet yet you continue to ignore everyone telling you to use a broker.
Walk in the dealership for a test drive. Good luck, have fun. 
The 5k das includes roughly a 2500 down payment which is not necessary. If you remove that, payment goes up a little and it would be. Payment plus 3500 das
I don’t see how your getting 40k from a dealer on a 21x3 either…
Most people on here just want to help out and not watch you pay more than you should
It doesnt hurt to reach out to Adam to get an offer on your car and it’ll certainly save you time and stress (as a former cop I’m sure you dont want/need any more stress) if you let Scott help you secure a really solid deal - can personally attest to his professionalism and he consistently offers great deals here which have helped many save thousands!
I would ask for all quotes to be given as “0 due at sale/signing” or “0 total drive-offs” with everything rolled in, and compare numbers that way
take any/all equity as a full check to you
2 Likes
say 0 due at signing. due at signing and down are 2 different terms
1 Like
Tell them you’re not paying one penny out of pocket at signing and to capitalize all up front costs into the payment. they can’t force you to put down anything
1 Like
The sheets can say anything.
I understand the question you want answered, but there are ways a dealer can show a 2k discount and actually be giving you $0 off the car.
For people on here, the focus is less on what the dealer sheet says, and more about how you calculate it out. You get their deal to match in the calculator, so you figure out what it REALLY is, and then you negotiate from there.
2 Likes
Yeah I can’t tell if all these are a troll post or not. Everyone is giving you great information if you read it carefully. I would read the above post by IAC_Scott slowly until you get it.
All the answers to “dealer said this, wrote this, offer this, another dealer offer this, same dealer did this 9 things” he answers. “The sheets can say anything”. The dealer can do whatever man. 15k down and 399$ per month…or anything.
~Sal
1 Like
You might take a step back and master how the LH calculator works.
Speaking from experience as a one-time leaser, there’s definitely a learning curve with the calculator, but it’s incredibly liberating once you see and understand how all of the numbers interrelate.
The extra challenge this eliminates from the start is what you’re trying to do now… reverse-engineering these deal sheets and understanding the calculations at the same time, which makes it exponentially harder to grasp.
Start with a generic deal. MSRP with the correct incentives, RV and MF for your region for your target vehicle. Then play around with capitalizing everything. Then look at paying the fees upfront. Watch how the numbers change.
Earlier in the thread you got suggestions to work with a broker. If everything I typed above is more than you want to deal with, well, IMHO you’ve already incurred $600 worth of frustration plus all of your time.
Good luck.
4 Likes
8 Likes
I wanted to unpack all this for you because I am bored but why does this say Audi FS?
4 Likes
I almost went there. 
1 Like
If you feel more comfortable signing that 691 5k deal go for it. No one will stop you, it’s your money at the end of the day. Let us know how it goes.
You seem confused and are getting irritated with people offering you the best possible advice.
I can’t answer your question because I still don’t even know what you’re talking about. Hopefully English is your second language because I have trouble following anything you type on here. Good thing you have “many years finance, many years police, and 4 year degree”.
1 Like
No I didn’t see it anywhere lol
Hopefully this is some help to you. I did my best to replicate the first deal you posted. Here you will see that the “$3,000 Savings” they are giving you is really only $1,500 since BMW is offering a $1,500 loyalty rebate that isn’t dealer discount. BMW is also offering a special 39 month loyalty lease rate, which is supposed to be 0.00125 but I suspect has been marked up to 0.00168. Either that or they are using the standard lease program instead of the loyalty program. About $4311 of your $5,000 in equity goes towards taxes, fees, etc and the remaining $691 is your first month’s payment. At the very least you should insist on the loyalty lease program with the buy rate money factor, along with a better dealer discount. The money factor markup alone is adding around $40 a month to the payment, if that’s what’s actually going on here.
2 Likes