To be honest I did pull it from thin air based on residual and price being the same as 2018 and rebates equaled my cash due at signing. The only difference could be MF (which I think is $20-30 higher) so yes $399 seems realistic when compared to my 2018 deal
Perhaps youād have better luck taking a few minutes to do the math based on realistic discount numbers.
Also, just because you now know the incentives doesnāt mean they werenāt there before.
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What if the true realistic number is $375/mo? You are still going to take $399/mo?
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Thatās not how any of this works
I would be ok going up $15 a month to go from a 18 to a 20
Well $1,250 is Costco
$500 is loyalty (did not have a Volvo before my 2018)
And 2500 is bonus cash. NONE of which I had in 2018. As far as the ātermā trunk cash. I do not know if that was used then or now as you say
The volvo allowance/lease cash is generally not itemized on contracts. It usually gets rolled into the discount and itās up to you to break it out. Even if it was just trunk cash, them having it on there then doesnāt mean itās on there now. The only valuable metric is what things are currently going for, and 17-18% without some incentives or trunk money rolled in isnāt happening on a new one.
If you had a dollar for every time you said thatā¦
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Imagine how boring this forum would be if everyone did their homework first
Good point! I always appreciate getting an alternative perspective.
Itās not $15 difference, itās $25. But you missed the point - you have no idea what the āreasonableā deal is without fully understanding all numbers. Letās try again: what if āreasonableā is $50/mo less than your $399/mo? Still take it? What if you can have 20 for a lot less money than your 18?
So curious on why I should do my homework 1st? All forums are the same, everyone knows everything and the person asking questions knows nothing. Whatās forums without occasional name calling and rude comments lol. I have thick skin, I dont expect to ask a question and have it answered politely. I could read and read some more and read about people saying āthatās a bad dealā āthat deal is to good to be trueā itās never āgreat jobā so by the end of the next day or 2 of back and fourth I should have enough positive information on what people are paying
Youāre curious as to why you should take the time to figure out what the vehicle should cost before talking to the dealer? Do I really need to explain the advantage of approaching a negotiation from a position of knowing what youāre negotiating vs going in blind?
So alittle miss understanding. $15 more than the 384 Iām currently paying. Well of course I would like to save money if it was possible. But from the sound of some people think Iām crazy for thinking I could do $48k MSRP for $399 sign and drive. You have worked alot of Volvo leases, so educate me on what kind of Volvo XC I can sign and drive for under $400 a month with NO plan and only factory rebates, Costco rebate and loyalty
You must be special. I know what the rebates are, i know the MF and residual. I also know what Iāve paid for the same car. So how am I being blind? If I was blind I would have asked if 399 with 4k out of pocket was a good deal. I already knew it was bad and thatās why i posted. If you can walk into a dealer and tell them what you are paying because you did your h.w and they agree without a fight congrats because that doesnt happen much
Canāt imagine where I got the idea you hadnāt done all your homework
Whatever happened to him anyway? He never came back!
That is not the point others trying to make. You cannot just guess what is reasonable. Get all the numbers and plug them in based on the reasonable dealer discount before incentives (11% off, for example). And go from there. Your dealer is playing psychological games by switching you from 18 to 20 at the same payments. Forget about it and see for yourself what you can get. And 2 month they are prepaying - no idea how they will do it since your 18 must be grounded before you get your new 20 on pull ahead.
True story: my Volvo GM had actually suggested pre-paying 2 month to get into pull ahead 2 years ago. But when I had a deal in place with another dealer and he contacted Volvo, he was told he could not do that and it had to be 9 months, no matter how many payments left.
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For what itās worth, why donāt you go to Edmunds and look up the 2018 information? All you have to do is look on the list of cars for the 2018 XC60. Itās right thereā¦
Since youāre so sure I didnt do my homework before I said $399. Please go to the calculator and plug in 48k MSRP, selling price 36k. You wanna know how I came up with that; 8k in MSRP discount (thatās the discount i had on my 2018) and $4k in rebates ($4250 based on Edmunds, but lets stick to basic numbers, it might help you). Let me know what number you come up with. Oh Iām using Edmunds rates from today. MF .00097 and residual of 57% Iāll wait. Hereās a link if it helps