Toyotaguard platinum for 700?
facepalm
Get a free quote from a broker on this site… that’s one of the primary values of this site is the abundance of deals just sitting in the forums. Go get yourself one from this site and check if your dealer can beat it
If your dealer beats it, go with them: congrats you got an amazing deal
If your dealer cant beat it, go with the broker: congrats you got an amazing deal
I am just curious to know how you think its not a good deal with my credit score being fair/poor for a lease at a 660 on a $45K car. I am pretty sure it may not be the best deal, but a pretty good deal at the least i think so… I mean i have been fighting for a week now to have them keep reducing the 4runner down. Almost 5 1/2 grand off. My rate is going to be high since my credit is fair/poor…
Again appreciate it but not really answering the question. Can the Toyoguard be removed? will they give me a hard time? is it worth keeping the Toyoguard?
Not a great deal, or a good deal… not even an average deal. I think anyone can walk on the lot and get that deal. Doesn’t come close to the 1% rule (which i know isn’t the gold standard, but still).
I’m just trying to be real with you because the deal you posted is not interesting at all…
Yea Toyota guard can be removed. So can the excess wear and tear plan. So can many of the dealer options that Southeast Toyota dealers add onto the sticker (window tints, pinstripe, etc).
I know you are being up front but at the same time you kinda have to be realistic no? I mean the biggest thing here is my credit, so you need to base this off my credit score… I mean seriously the way you say things is like if i need to tell them to drop another 5,6,7K off the car so aim for 10k-13k off… i mean seriously that is not to realistic especially when inventory is low, i mean we are talking about a Toyota, not a F-150 where you see 10K drops off MSRP without even fighting for a discount (No offense to Ford).
Ok great, appreciate it. i will aim to get that removed. The Wear and tear protection i actually wanted, its just a simple peace of mind when returning the lease back to dealer. Been doing that with my wife’s leases
How do you know what is realistic if you haven’t spoken to more than one dealer, and haven’t tried a broker?
You don’t need 10k off the truck. you need to remove optional extras, and get a better financing bank with a lower MF for your credit tier and a higher RV for the 4runner, and a dealer that wont’ inflate those values to their benefit. Do yourself a favor, contact a broker to see how their deal looks vs the one you’re being offered. You’ve got 17 calendar days before end of the month… plenty of time to lock in a better deal.
Have you run your deal through the leasehackr calculator? Whats the score?
Its not about knowing what is realistic, its actually being realistic. It has to be a win win situation. I appreciate your inputs and knowledge, really do, but from the beginning you said it was a horrible deal when you did not even bother asking or knowing the credit score, you assumed it was based off higher tier. I most definitely will keep trying to lower my payment by removing things that i don’t need or fees etc…, that is why i asked about the Toyoguard in the first place since i did not know the answer and in which i appreciate you answering. After all this is why we are all here correct to help each other out. I have not ran it through the calculator yet. Will give that a go. Thanks
Toyoguard was probably port-installed and on the MSRP, so you cannot have the dealer remove it.
wow that sucks. was hoping to get that removed, would have saved about 12-15 bucks more off the payment. Yea it indeed looks like it was added at the port-installed
OP: what’s the goal here? To get into a 4runner at $450, or to get into this specific vehicle your talking with dealer about?
You have a good discount and I think that’s all the farther your getting on this specific truck. If the goal is $450, a broker gave you that specifically in this thread.
So i just did the numbers on the lease calculator from this forum and it is saying i should be paying $505 with taxes per month. But i am going to pay $539 per month. Hmm… trying to see what is making the jump…
$700 increase/decrease in MSRP is not that big of a difference. If ~$7/mo is that big of a deal to your budget, you should seriously consider looking at a cheaper vehicle.
My goal is NOT to pay $450 (if i could i would but its not realistic. I am trying to be realistic based off my credit score of a 660. This is a $45K MSRP, I have gotten them to reduced the 4runner by almost 5 1/2 grand which is respectable in my opinion. 3 year lease with 15K miles and paying $539 per month now. My goal right now is to see if i am able to get the Toyoguard removed that cost 700 bucks, but it seems like i wont be able to since it was added at the Port pre done with the 4runner. I figure removing that and going down from 15K miles to 12K miles, i would be closer to $500 per month with taxes. I have no problem paying $500 since my credit is fair and i need a new car. This is a TRD off road model with the XP predator package. So are there any other things that you guys think i can get the dealer to remove so that i can get my payment to drop even by a couple bucks? Thanks
haha your the second person that says that and it makes me laugh every time. Its not about that, its about if i can keep fighting to decrease my payment why not? trying everything i can. I can afford the payment, its not about that. Every little helps. The way i see money and life is you put it somewhere, but then you need to remove from somewhere else… Its life that is the way it works. I could be using those 7 bucks towards buying my kids a ice cream or something, just little things like that.
Well, your posts don’t make a lot of sense. You are paying so much attention to small issues while ignoring the bigger issues. Another “savings” method you brought up is the mileage. Obviously 12k/yr will be cheaper than 15k/yr. Why even bring these that up though? You get the miles you need, not get whatever mileage so you get a cheaper payment.
You know what will save you a lot of money? MSDs!!! Do max MSDs and you’d be under $500/mo.
I tried to throughly read through this tread, sorry if i missed it.
One of the golden rules of LH is to take advantage of MSDs if you’re open to it. If through TFS, did you consider putting your cap cost reduction (and more) towards MSDs? I’m not sure if MSDs are dependent on credit score though.
I do personally think that actively shopping around for a week isn’t enough time to get a good deal.
Reducing miles from 15k to 12k is usually an increase of 2% from the RV.
Toyoguard is just Prepaid oil changes for a certain number of years. So it is absolutely not port installed and can absolutely be removed. And you won’t need it on a 3 year lease!
