And if you go to edmunds, YOU need to ask for the terms for YOUR zip code.
Lots of people will go, see a post from a month or two ago of a similar vehicle in a zip code across the country and try to use those numbers thinking that that’s the same thing as actually asking themselves.
What the forum is trying to tell you is you need to seek out education on leases here and other places prior to leasing a vehicle. There are so many facets of a lease deal that its easy to get tripped up if you don’t know more about leasing than the salesperson / sales manager you’re working with.
You’ll often find that a lot of sales people you speak with don’t even understand how leasing works. You’re currently standing at the peak of a very tall tree and are about to fall and hit every single branch on the way down if you sign a deal without understanding what you’re signing. Good luck
Yes the numbers change monthly and if this is what Edmunds says for April then go by their word and take it up with the dealer as to why they are quoting you 55% and offering 39 month.
There’s a misunderstanding somewhere as RV can’t be changed or negotiated.
*I believe the deal can’t even be funded if it’s incorrect (someone correct me if I’m wrong with that statement).
All things being equal, a higher RV will give a better lease, but in practice, it’s only one part of the puzzle. A lower RV with a lower MF and higher incentives may be a better lease than a higher RV with a higher MF and lower incentives.
Also, you don’t need to always get buy rate MF. You do need to know what buy rate MF is to make sure than you make up for any mark ups with an appropriate discount. Some dealers are incentives to make more money in marked up financing, so you can use it to your advantage if you understand the variables
I’m still new to all this myself, but I would say, “The monthly should flow from the negotiated sales price.” Meaning, if you feed the numbers into the calculator, and the monthly quoted by the dealer is way higher than the calculator monthly, you’ll want to see if/where the dealer is working in additional profit. Ultimately, the only thing really matters is the total price you’re paying over the duration of the lease (IMHO).
It’s “okay” if the dealer marks up the MF b/c they presumably need to make profit somewhere, but the closer you can get it to the buy rate, all other things being equal, the better the deal (and sometimes the dealer will offer you the buy rate).
You listed a nice foundation of leasing knowledge to build on👍. Now just keep up on the reading and when you’re ready bring back a deal here BEFORE you sign if you’d like some feedback on it.
Haven’t nailed the reason down yet. OP says Edmunds said MB doesn’t A) offer 39month and B) the residual should be 2% higher than dealers quote.
Not sure where the disconnect is… too early in the month for the new numbers, dealer quoting AWD vs RWD, wrong terms or what🤷♂️
You need to get about 17-18% discount to make up the difference. They probably won’t adjust dealer fees so your best bet is to get more discount and/or lower MF.
Did you figure out how they’re offering a 39 month term if Edmunds said MB doesn’t offer one?