2019 BMW i3 BEV $47,xxx MSRP, 24/10k, Effective $207/mo, $0 DAS + 7 MSDs ($1750), 0.436% of MSRP

True…but to be conservative, I always include the total lease cost into the % MSRP metric. If the taxes, fees, etc are pulled out it will prob drop into the 0.3xx% range, but Uncle Sam is always going to get his cut!

Yeah…and I hope BMW keeps it this way. Its nice for the brand to have an “oddball” car such as this (and the i8) IMO.

I loved the first gen Volt (and had 2 of them)…at the time they stood out. The 2nd looked alot more like a “regular” car and didnt appeal (to me anyway) quite as much.

I still can’t figure this out, out of curiosity I have been trying to reverse out how they may have structured this lease, and I have not been able to conclusively figure it out. I have a feeling they took some of the taxes due on the large amount of incentives on this car (FL taxes rebates) and put them under the sales price line.

Mainly because they are not ready to sell evs in big numbers. Imagine if they come up with a Model 3 equivalent and end up with similar sales numbers at over 12000 per month. The 3 and 4 series are under 7000 sold per month now.

OP, crazy deal…congrats! Did you get a 36mo quote?

How can I get this lease deal?
Sounds amazing.:slightly_smiling_face:

Honestly, you could just try what I did. Contact a gazillion dealers on a specific car that you want and throw a deal out there and see what happens. It will likely work best at a dealer that has a significant stock of i3.

I did not work anything up formally for 36 months for a couple of reasons.

  1. The car will almost certainly need tires with a 36 month lease, I didn’t want to go there :slight_smile:

  2. With the 6% residual drop on a 36/10 versus a 24/10, the payment was going to come out higher by probably $30 or so just by quick calculation.

Noooooo! Then my little weird car will be too normal😁

Don’t you also have an ev rebate from the state? I don’t see it listed in your post.

In Florida, no such thing unfortunately :-(.

Ok. Thanks for the advice!:+1:

You could also try to shoot for a completely base car, if you don’t care about a lot of the options and I think a truly mega deal might be found. The car I actually wanted would have been exactly this. The one I picked up had over $2000 in options that I really didn’t want truthfully (Metallic paint, wireless charging, moonroof, heat pump). As such all else equal the payment might have been $30 a month lower without all this stuff.

After sifting through the actual lease agreement, as best as I can tell, the MSRP discount calculates out to 15.25%. With the known additional costs as shown on the lease, this discount allows the zero drive off in the calculator to be spot on the actual payment at base MF. Alternately, they marked the MF up and the MSRP discount is greater. Based on some of the structure below, that could be the case.

Interestingly, they are showing no dealer doc fees, other than a $149 “e file fee”, which of course is a dealer fee under a different guise (but many dealers have both a doc fee and an “e file” fee). They also did not waive the acquisition fee (as I am guessing on this deal they are preferring to show a loss on the car and a win in Finance). Lastly, they greatly overestimated the registration fees at nearly $500, so I am sure Ill be getting a check back for a few hundred bucks. (Dealers cannot markup registration fees by law).

Lastly, and as an aside, it really is ridiculous how convoluted lease contracts are. Even someone who (mostly) knows how this game is played still cant make 100% sense out of how the contract reads with regard to how much $ actually changed hands and was DAS. No wonder the average Joe without the benefit of a site like this gets smoked like a rack of ribs.

I worked it out down to the dollar—

Your electric fuel will not be for free unless You had a solar system that generated much more enrgy before You bought the car.

Correct…I overproduce in my current arrangement. Most months I am building up a kWh credit with the utility. The car will simply zero that out.

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Great. Good for You. Congrats
From the experience better is to buy electric car first and than a year later solar panels so Your car fuel is included .

Yeah…when we had 2 i3s at once we were still mostly net zero. I designed this system to the max I could do in my area (i.e. max backfeed kW that the utility would allow without jumping up a tier). This has been one of the best investments Ive ever made (as I did all of the design/install myself). The return on investment was ~24% in year 1 and I live in a medium power cost area (~$0.12-0.13 /kWh fixed rate, no TOU, EV, etc). Return only goes up year over year (as the system output declines much more slowly than rates on average increase).

Yeah…we had 2 or 3 (2015-2017) i3 before I put the PV system on in 2017.

Prior to PV though, I mad sure I completed all reasonable efficiency improvements first. Efficiency is usually cheaper than generation!

Good thinking. Congrats again