You my friend don’t need much help from this forum. If you could easily get the 9600 off MSRP than you could easily convert it to 9k below Invoice. If you got this number in early part of March than stick to your target and ask for 9k below invoice. It also depends on which geographical market you are in.
I am almost sure that there is 1k more in lease support this month compared to Feb as researched in my other thread where a fellow member has researched specials from a dealer from Florida and compared it to their last months specials.
@HN308 Quick question… since in OH taxes are paid upfront, is there a way to roll taxes into the lease payments? Just curious since I have never leased in the pass.
Thanks @vhooloo, also I was inform by one of the dealers that I’m talking to that I qualify for the VPP program. I was able to get the code for my company and it looks like Nissan has a website were you can place some sort of claim.
I’m not sure if what I’m saying makes sense, I guess I would like to know how to handle that. I would like to find out more information on the discount and if it could be used on top of any discount that the dealer has already given me.
If you qualify for a VPP discount than that will take your cap cost further down over your negotiated selling price.
I would suggest you don’t disclose that you have a VPP code and get the lowest selling price from the dealer. Once you believe that is the best you can get and are happy with the number suggest them that you have a VPP code and depending on which code you have will be able to deduct that amount from the selling price already given to you.
Go through below link and let me know if you have any further questions about VPP.
It sure does give you no haggle pricing if you are happy just taking it. They do love customers who hate to haggle.
Ideally VPP code should be applied over the best possible deal you can negotiate so you get that extra 1000-1500 off your cap cost depending on the VPP code you have which you would not have got otherwise.
The dealer gets that extra VPP discount money reimbursed back to them so they usually won’t have an issue giving it to you on top of agreed selling price.
However if you disclose from the onset that you have a code worth 1500 odd the chances of you getting the best price from the dealer are very less. So get the absolute best price you can and just tell them to apply the code on top of it at the end.
They will basically tell you that the VPP code is already included in all the discounts you have if you disclose it to them too early. Once you are comfortable with selling price have them send you an email of all the discounts that got you to that selling price. You’ll notice that VPP isnt on there so you will then be able to say “oh yeah i’ve got this VPP” code once you see that it wasn’t originally included.
So after shopping around with all the different dealers in my area it looks like 38196 is the best sell price that I can get (MSRP 47820). Non of the other dealers would come even closed to that number.
All the dealers are telling that available incentives depend on the zip that you are going to register the car at and some are not even willing to give out all the incentives.
The VPP program that I qualify for does not include any discounts off the invoice price, it just obligates the dealer to give you the invoice price from the start and go from there.
Its too early in the month for the dealers to give you any better deals.
Also what you are told about the VPP code is BS. I have personally used VPP code on top of getting more than 10K off MSRP which I negotiated before disclosing that i have a VPP code and this was just 2 months back and nothing has changed since. Also most Infiniti incentives are same and doesn’t depend where the car is registered.
Back in December i had a fellow member from this Forum referred by me to my dealer and they flew in from OH to NY and drove back their car same day. It was a 60K red sport which he got for $449 with nothing down. The dealer can apply every incentive he has available when making the sale and it doesn’t matter where you register the car.
You need to be patient and keep asking for the discount you believe can be achieved. Depending on the inventory on hand, sales target and other competitive market factors the dealers will start playing ball. It can however take few weeks and you will see action in the last week of the month.
If they say that about VPP, make sure you don’t sign any VPP paperwork if you do a deal. If they make you, make sure you get an additional $1250-$1500 off your negotiated price.
My dealer is not giving good deals anymore. Guess he got too many referrals from me and lot of people reached out to him last month so he started giving out horrible numbers.
Attempting to not fill up the entire website with Q50 deals, but here is the current offer from a dealer on the 2017 Q50 Signature
MSRP- 42,250
Discount- 7,681.75
Total Purchase- 34,568.25
Doc- 250
Tax + Non Tax- 132
Net- 34950
10k/39
Residual 53%
MF .00026
Tax included and first payment down - 380
Is there anything I am missing?
I know the VPP codes exist but not sure how to see what the value of it is without going to the dealer. Is now the time to share this with them? And does the VPP come off of the Total or Net price?
Thanks for your help.
you are basically getting a price at close to invoice plus the 5K incentive that is available based on the screenshot shared by @atejada1127 however your MF is not what he is reporting. Check with few other dealers about it. i know for sure that the AWD models have it at 0.00003.
Try to get at least another 2K off and don’t pay any doc fees. If they insist on doc fees ask for $2250 further discount from current selling price.
Don’t mention about VPP code now. Get him to a selling price around 32.5K to 33K and get that in email from him. After that share that you have a VPP code and deduct $1250 more from selling price to come up with your best Cap Cost. You don’t need to ask what the value of the code is to the dealer. Just tell him the final Cap cost you want after deducting it and if your code is worth less he will let you know.
Great, thanks for the help. For reference though, I contacted another dealer and they were miles from this price with a monthly payment of $470 + tax.
I will keep looking and I will follow your recommendation for the other 2k off.
To get me to the current 35k they took off the acquisition fee of $700, I didn’t know that the DOC fee could also be negotiated.
If they’ve charged one person a doc fee, they’ll have to charge everyone lest they be accused of discrimination. There is no “insist” here – the line item will be there as sure as the sun comes up.
Everyone should just negotiate the cap cost knowing the doc fee will be in your paperwork as a line item.
