I have been asked by many on this forum via PM as well as this thread how can one get a discount of 20% or more on MSRP on a 2017 car and I am going to put a detailed post on how I do it. I am going to tell you now that this is going to be a long post and I hope its worth your time. Also understand that this discount % doesn’t apply to every car as it will depend on incentives from factory to dealer.
An informed buyer is the dealers worst nightmare so before you call any dealer (never ever step into dealership) you need to do your homework and have all your ducks in a row.
This process is same regardless whether you are buying or leasing a car. Once you know which car you want after test driving few cars (this is the only time you should go to dealership apart from when you take the delivery of the car) the research begins.
Some good sources for information are Edmunds lease discussion thread from where you can get the MF, Residual and what selling price others in your market are getting. Also check out the forums for the particular car you are interested in and most likely there is Purchase/Lease thread where people would have posted their recent deals. There are few more places like this site where others discuss the deals as well.
You need to find any incentives that are available in form of Dealer cash and consumer cash for lease which is what becomes a base for your expected price.
I will take the example of the car I leased which is a 2017 Q50 AWD.
MSRP - $ 46585
Invoice - $ 43589
Residual - $ 24690.05 ( 53%)
Money Factor - 0.00003
Acquisition - $ 700
Now we all know that the dealers don’t pay even the Invoice price for the vehicle let alone MSRP so our starting point has to be below the Invoice Price. I always call dealers and ask how much below invoice less all factory incentives available can I get the car for. In the case above the incentives were around $ 6,000 (Consumer cash and Dealer cash) and I make sure to get all of it. If you don’t know what the exact incentives are its still OK, just tell him you know about it with confidence and when you mention other lease lingo like the MF, residual, MSD etc they would most likely not question knowing you have done your research. Once they give you selling price (they will try to play the monthly payment game. Never give them that monthly number you are looking at or else they will engineer a lease around it and you will not know how it was calculated) deduct it from the Invoice and you will know how much incentive are they passing along to you. Most will not give you all of it but you have to be persistent and get all the incentive and than some (remember they never pay invoice price plus there is holdback money which they get from factory for every day the car sits on their lot and than there is back pocket cash which the manager has to use to get that last few sales done at the end of the month).
So in my case I started by asking 12K below MSRP and when some dealer would cough at me saying where did I pull that number from I would give them a break down saying I want at least 3K below invoice and all incentives available. They would usually start from 8K below MSRP and come and stop around $9500 below MSRP after I present them with my numbers.
I had no dealer even offer me less than 9K in 1st two weeks of the month which was December in my case but I was ready to be patient. The time of the month you get the deal done is critical and the last week is the best time. I called almost every dealer who had a car in my metro area in stock and asked for 12K below MSRP and keep a list of who came close to my asking. I had at least 20 dealers reject my offer in 4 states around me and said no one would do it and around 5 of the same ones called me back in the last week asking if I was still interested but I had put the deposit by then. I believe if one of the first 5 calls you make to the dealer and they accept your offer, you made a too high offer. You need to ask for better numbers than that.
The key in this game is that you control it at all times. When you step into a dealership the dealer wins half the battle. Don’t ever do it. I feel the phone has been most effective but you could do the same with an email but I prefer the phone as you make out a lot from the tone of the opposite person that you can’t in an email.
Remember you have to buy/lease 1 car every 3 years and the dealership has to sell couple of hundred cars every month so you are always in the drivers seat provided you know what you are doing.
Feel free to ask any specific questions you have for me and also share if you have some other ideas that the community can benefit from.