So I’m in somewhat of a need of a car due to job change circumstances, public transit isn’t going to cut it anymore.
I’ve been quoted a price for a chevy volt LTs at with 0 down and $234/10K, $243/12K, $262/15K taxes included. i.e. purchase price of 30,295 with $7150 in promotions and assuming money factor of .0006 and about $1250 in “fees” (licence, taxes on the initial promotions and dispotition, though the number they quoted for me for that was what is listed on the calculator as cadillac’s fee, calculator lists chevy’s as cheaper).
In addition I’d be throwing in about $1250 from GM card (thanks parents!) and with the $1500 CA rebate i’m figuring my “real/amortized” cost would be $70-80 or so cheaper a month.
are these good deals?
from what I see, people have done better in the past when they had competitive leases (never leased before), but as a) wasn’t looking then and b) wouldn’t have been available to me anyways, these seem somewhat similar.
if I was smarter, I’d have signed up for the farm bureau a long time ago, but didn’t, so even if I did now, wouldn’t get the 30 days and unsure things would be cheaper in 30 days, though please disabuse me of this notion if you think it be worthwhile to wait, I can probably hold off a month if its in my best interests)
following up on my own post, I forwarded them the gengraschevrolet deal for $199 with 0 down and they said they can match it. so I’ll be going into their dealership on sunday hoping to strike a deal.
I just helped my friend lease a Volt for $230/mo - 12k month with absolute 0 drive off. He signed it on 15th of this month. On top of that he will get CA rebate. Hope this helps you.
yeah, so they bait and switched me. At minimum there was miscommunication. There wasn’t a $199/10K lease including or not including tax.
it would be a $234 excluding tax lease w/ 0 down (or 250+ with tax, or about $2K more than I thought was agreed to, but willing to accept there was at least miscommunication on the tax included or not)
I’d probably have been ok if it was $199 excluding tax, but it wasn’t. Told them I’d go home and sleep on it. Basically to get the price I want, it have to be about $1K cheaper purchase price.
eh, its the nature of the biz to some extent, the salesman I was talking to was young, I wont blame him so much, I’ll strike some of it up to miscommunication on both of our parts (i.e. perhaps they thought I was more concerned about $199 a month payments vs. what I put down upfront and said yes, we can get you to $199 a month payments)
I think I’d have to lower the costs $1K to get the $200 (before tax) cost that will make me pull the trigger. I’m hoping promotions are similar towards the end of may as then will be eligible for the $500 farm bureau discount and hence can say if we split the difference from before, you lowering the purchase price $500 and me bringing another $500 in rebates on my own if we can make the deal, but who knows.
oh, I agree, hence my use of “bait and switch” above. With that said, they did offer me a better deal than most other dealerships have (one has said we’d be willing to still make that deal, but most have said, we can’t match it) so I’m not “that” hard on them. I’m willing to walk away as needed.
where are you located and whats the break down of the lease if you dont mind me asking. I’m trying for a Volt lease but I’m not seeing any deals out there
SF Bay area. They offered me a 34,235 MSRP volt for $4K off MSRP (30,235) with 7150 in rebate incentives. using the 7150 to avoid any driveoff costs so everything else is wrapped up into the 35 monthly payments (.0006mf, 51/50/48% residual…)
I felt it was a good price, but not a grab it or lose it price. (in fact another dealer that I spoke with in LA said he’d match it though he said it was about as good as I might be able to do, at least based on april incentives, may could makes things better or worse)
so they just called me to put on the hard sell to say if they get close to the $200 price before tax (taking off $1K off purchase price) will I come in tonight and get it. I guess I will. a bit nervous, but doubt I can do much better.
Oh, I didn’t take it. In practical terms, I spent about 3-4 hours of wasted time (i.e. driving to/from them and 2-3 hours with them at dealership, test driving/negotiating and the like).
As I told them, I don’t need the car this month, that savings (i.e. wasted month) combined with a farm bureau rebate would net me close to $800 in “savings”. Even if the deal is $800 worse in a month, its a wash for me then. If I can only get the same deal, I come out ahead, if I can get a slightly better deal, I come out more ahead.
