I’m starting to think that a 1% sign and drive lease is a unicorn. I seriously have tried getting a 1% deal with multiple dealers and with different auto brands. I’ve tried the round-about approach and the direct approach trying to get to a final number and then talking the monthly payment…nothing but crickets. Though I think I even heard laughter once or twice. These guys aren’t even close. I’ve tried Lincoln, Alfa Romeo, Kia , Hyundai, Ford and Toyota…if the car is $38k for example they are coming back with $539 on a sign and drive. I’m just starting to think that that whole 1% rule/deal is just a unicorn and I’m never going to get that kind of deal (at least here in South Florida). Anything anyone suggests I can try?
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You’re $14/month from it. Counter with $380 instead of $333 and you’ll probably get it.
Try targeting volume dealerships. They will give you the greatest discount
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Definitely not a unicorn consider how many people have gotten it here.
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I know…seeing all these great deals keeps me fighting to get one. They are just eluding me
They ended up taking $4 dollars off lol …came down to $390. I told her if something changes and new incentives come up, keep me in mind if you can come down to my number.
If you are not particular to brand, you can always try a Chrysler or GM. Those dealers are begging to lease their cars for 1% or less.
Thanks…a Malibu Premier is one I was thinking of looking into
You’re probably not going to get anywhere on one of those. You need a good residual, cheap interest rate and high rebates combined with an aggressive discount. Last I checked the Malibu rebates were pretty weak, so it’s gonna be tough to get a good deal on one.
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Difficult to get a 1% lease on a fully equipped model. Stay with the less expensive packages for the best deals, obviously.
any thoughts on cars/brands with great rebates, good residual, cheap interest rates? I’m actually pretty flexible but do want leather, sunroof and at least blindspot (which of course usually comes bundled with a safety package). Here’s the list I’ve been looking into (not all have I negotiated)…
Alfa Romeo Giulia and Stelvio
Kia Stinger Premium
Lincoln MKC and MKZ
Mustang EcoBoost Premium
Chevy Malibu Premier
Hyundai Santa Fe Limited (2019)
Jaguar XE
That’s your problem right there. You are probably paying $899 just in doc fees. And hardly any discount on the SP
sorry but what’s the “SP”?
Selling price, more specifically the selling price before any rebates and incentives are applied. Be specific.
More often than not gotta be willing to travel for the deal.
My Mini Cooper S was a 0.3% deal
My BMW Wagon is a 0.4% deal
My wifes lexus that was a 15k a year mile loaded RX350 was just barely 1%
I had to fly with a one way ticket and drive back about 8-10 hours for all of them. My local market (STL) sucks for dealers willing to discount. So worth it though!
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I can’t seem to get them to budge from the MSRP without them bringing in incentives, rebates etc. As if that’s the only thing that brings the price down
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wow…great deals. I’d totally do that too. Are any states/big dealerships known for those great deals?
You need to be very clear. Try sending requests directly to the sales manager if you can find their email, or on the online quote generator say something like, “Hello, I’d like to have a sales manager email me with the current selling price before any rebates and incentives are applied on this (Car model here). Thanks in advance for your time.”
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Mini was in Houston, Lexus in Atlanta, BMW was Baton Rouge.
Point being… not really. I just cruise cars.com, cargurus.com and autotrader looking for the biggest difference between MSRP and advertised price. More often than not the dealers had every incentive under the sun listed. However sometimes find the gems that don’t, or are actually honest about what incentives are in there. Get on the phone, get a sales person, ask if the advertised price includes incentives everyone qualifies for or selective. You should already know what the realistic numbers are just based on reading on here and edmunds.
Know the MF and residual for the trim you are wanting, know what incentives you qualify for, backtrack and figure out what % the dealer has to take off to make the deal favorable. If it’s something like 15-20% off before incentives, then it’s just not going to happen. If it’s something like 10-12%… well then, you are getting somewhere.
Once you know what your target is, just get on the phone. Much easier, quicker, saves you time, saves the salesguy time, and lets them know you are serious.
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Here’s my story on the $215 BMW wagon.
The whole MO tax thing is weird. BMW Financial is only billing me for $234 a month now with the tax. So… who knows.
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