I was quoted a new lease deal for a VW E-golf, fully loaded SEL-Premium with Driver’s assistance package for $540.72 per month.
Should I shop around more? What should the final negotiated price be?
Your deal belongs in this thread:
I see. That’s too bad. I’ve still not signed the lease yet. So that’s good 
Do you have a suggestion on what a good deal for this car should be?
Apparently these cars(especially the ones including driver assistance package) are hard to come by, I was told.
Shouldn’t this car qualify for the federal EV rebate? Does VW pass any of it on as a rebate/incentive?
Yes, Sorry, I left that out. But I was told that it’s passed on to me as an incentive so $7500 less was used for the per month calculation.
So, yes, it’s factored in. Do you still think it’s the worst lease you’ve seen?!
Yes, it’s still very very bad. I wouldn’t even take that car for $300/month.
Thanks. This is a car we like(love). I’d appreciate if you could share some more information on what should I be negotiating on to make this deal better.
Here are some of examples. I’d just use those as a baseline and actually try to beat those posted deals.
That’s a $200/mo car. You should definitely be in the 2’s. You are getting ripped off. For $540/mo, you can lease a $60 MB E300.
I’d look at a bolt and save 300 to 400 a month. I’ve driven the E-Golf and was not impressed at all. Very jittery due to the short wheelbase and weight I’m guessing. It’s also now the only VW in the lineup that carries their horrible 3 year 36k mile warranty… I wonder why.
for that same lease price you could literally lease a 5 series BMW or a new Tiguan plus an i3 BMW.
MSRP is 39k and residual is 14k. Do you really want to lease this car which is worth only 1/3 in 3 years.[Meaning you pay for the 2/3 depreciation?] Pass on it. You say you love the car? Why do you hate your money so much?
Well - it’s subjective. I liked the Egolf much better than the I3 or Bolt or Leaf. And I do not care for MB E300 or 5 series BMW or Tiguan Plus. I’m looking for an EV for the carpool sticker and the novelty. Comparing EGolf with them is comparing apples and oranges.
It is simply expensive because it was released fairly recently? In that case, I do not mind paying the premium. Is it expensive because I’m getting a bad deal? If yes AND you can spot what I should go back to dealer on so I can ask them about it and negotiate, I’ll greatly appreciate.
Where are you located? That can impact how good of a deal you can get… quick look at Truecar shows $33.8k as market average selling price (not even True Car price) in my area. I’d say the selling price can be much much better.
I’m located in the Bay area. The truecar price for the car I configured(the one with MSRP $39,375) is somewhere around $35,500. The $33.8K that you saw is probably lesser configuration?
I’m going to definitely ask the dealer to match the truecar price(though they’re not affiliated). Thanks.
As Falcon said, it’s a $200/mo car. The main reason for this is the limited electric range.
No, the e-golf has been available for 2 or 3 model years. It’s expensive because the dealer you’re talking to is trying to have you pay for their kitchen renovation in their vacation home on the back of your lease payment.
1% rule is there for a reason.
Plus, I’m pretty sure there’s no such thing as a 2017 e-Golf. I thought they were all 2016’s and the next version with longer range will be the 2018. What’s the build date on the car you’re looking at.
And yes, $540/mo is completely absurd for that car. But you seem to have your mind made up. As others have said, you should easily be in the $2xx’s with $0 down.
I believe the new 125mi range is the 2017 MY, even though it’s only coming out at the end of 2017 here in the States. I believe it was available in other areas (like Canada) earlier in the year.
The 2017 egolf is already for sale here in the Bay Area, California. And yes, it has 125 miles range. One of the best out there. The only one that can do better is Bolt(230 miles) which, personally, we do not like at all.
Yes, others have said that I should be in the $2xx range with $0 down but that seems absurd for a $39,375 MSRP car. This could just be me being stupid.
Someone said that the residual is too less for the car, but I don’t think that’s negotiable. Someone else pointed me to a blogspot page which has 7500 mile per year range deals in there for the Base model in an entirely different state. Who knows what the sales tax there is. Very different than what I’m looking for.
At this point, unless some one else can help me - the only way I have to be able to negotiate is to show them the truecar estimate for a different (similar) car which is about $1000 cheaper bringing the per month down to about $500.
@mkh Just get the e-Golf since you love it.
*To other LHers, we need to sacrifice some so dealerships can give us LHer-worthy deals in the future. Let’s just all let this one go. 