Why is the dealer quoting so much higher than deals here?

Not sure what you are saying. You are currently leasing a Mazda that you want to return early? How much longer do you have? You need to see whether there are any current pull ahead offers or any equity in your leased car

I am currently 19 months into 36 months Mazda CX-30 lease. The payoff is $25,100. I’ve gotten purchase offeres from Carmax for $26,000.

I would still reach out to the broker and let them know exactly what you’re trying to do. He/She can probably advise you on the best course of action. I’ve done deals with @IAC with and without trades. Yes, a trade complicates the deal, but it’s not impossible to do sometimes.

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Ive reached out to a few but they’re saying there’s no equity on the car.

Sure wish we had broker services in Alaska.

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Have you received quotes from all the buying services?

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If the savings is large enough, it might be worth bringing it in from the mainland.

Alaska unfortunately is an isolated market and most people don’t want to faff about with the logistics and are at the mercy of their local dealers which also presents a barrier to entry for an enterprising broker.

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Yes I’ve gotten a few quotes. Carmax seems the highest around $26000

I am just trying to wrap my head around why a lease would be $2500 more compared to in person. Would that be the money factor?

What @jeisensc said. Shop your current car around.

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If you master the calculator you would know :wink:

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I wish I understood numbers better.

Has dealer given you a detailed quote? Do you know what money factor they are using? Do you know the sales price of the car they are using? Do you know if they’ve included any dealer adds? All of these things make a big difference in lease payment. You’ll never understand where they are getting their numbers unless you can input that info into the lease calculator (in the correct field). Then you’ll know where the final figure is coming from. Until you know all of that info you’re spinning your wheels here.

Nothing to wrap your head around, they just padded the quote with higher interest rates, junk fees, etc.
Once you go in, you are in their spiderweb and they can spend 5 hours to get you to sign on anything.

You have a several thousand dollar incentive to dig into them. Or hire a broker and don’t sweat it.

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Yeah. I figured. They won’t give me any details without going in. I’ll just deal with a broker here. Seems easier. Now to figure out the best way to turn in my lease early and get equity on it.

Equityhakr (front page of leasehackr.com)
@Anthony_Lopez he buys leases.
Ask any local broker.

Hi thanks for the mention.

https://dsrleasing.com/lease-end-buyout-leasehackr/

Use my link to submit the info on the car you want me to make an offer on.

thanks,

Anthony.

This is really so much easier than you think it is. You can get the Money Factor or Residual on Edmunds Forum site, just put in the term, mileage, model and your zip code, you will see a bunch of examples if you go there. They will respond in a few hours. Then take the MSRP and put all of that into the calculator. In terms of knowing dealer fees etc, that is also not complicated, look at the paperwork from your current lease and honestly, $500 in fees one way or the other will not increase the payment by $2500! Also, a lot of the brokers on here have calculator links so you can see how they go to the numbers. Make sure you account for your taxes. It is a very fill in the blank experience. Even if you end up using a broker you should know how much you are paying and the cost of leasing v buying and financing

The residual cannot be changed by the dealer, it is set by the leasing company but the MF can be marked up, friends went a luxury brand last fall and their original MF would have been 10% for tier 1+ credit, ended up paying under 6% after negotiating

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Thanks! Thats very helpful. I notice a lot of dealers add optional accessories to boost the MSRP is it possible to request it without them?

I have rarely experienced that so I cannot say and I have leased/purchased five cars in the last three years (for me and a couple of friends where I did the negotiating and one was a Mazda) so it is under current markets and similar level of car. It has never even come up. Check other area dealerships? I did have to take some $300 nonsense on my last car but it was 2022 and I was otherwise getting it for invoice (Subaru ASPCA Promotion) so I did not object too much and it was the color I wanted and no one else had anything for eight weeks and they said every car they sell has this added which is probably not true in 2019 but was probably accurate in 2022 but now there is more inventory