I’m at 24,000 on my RFTs with about 5 mm left and just started to notice a lot of road noise. On a quiet road, it sounds like all of my wheel bearings are bad. But the security of knowing that I am safe if I have a blowout doing 80 on I-5 is worth the noise and deterioration in ride. The first 20,000, it was actually fine.
Anyone know is there a specific time of the year when tires go on sale? For a Nissan Armada tires are $1000+ I usually go for Firestone or Goodyear.
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I prefer run-flats on a daily (that come with them) vs. many of today’s cars that come with some tire goop and a prayer in the trunk. My wife has been averaging a zero-pressure flat a year the past few years and the run flats on her BMWs have allowed her to drive home safely vs. waiting for a tow. We do have relatively smooth roads where we live however, and we are not incredibly sensitive to road noise and harshness.
Ford Bronco has entered the chat…
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This is one of my zero-aptitude / zero interest subjects, but that will be obvious from the scenario / questions.
Just setting expectations.
WWYD?
- 2019 BMW 750i RWD
- Staggered fitments
- 13,500 on the odo
- Garaged in Ohio
- Has four summer tires
- Basically undrivable after the third snowflake hits the pavement
- We have an AWD SUV that’s almost always home
- Between work and personal travel, I’m elsewhere for half the winter
- No commute / permanently remote for more than 10 years
- Rear tires replaced at around 9,000 miles (got a great deal thanks to a tip in this thread)
- Not willing to keep a second set of tires and swap with the seasons
- No plans to get rid of the car (best guess is I’ll keep it for 3 more years / 9,000 more miles)
And now…
The car needs front tires (and, clearly, an alignment)
If this is a summer car, then don’t change the setup: replace the fronts with summers
Consider moving away from RFT with each change (now and eventually the rears)
Just remember that summers start to become useless in really cold temperatures regardless of precipitation.
Can you elaborate on the $200?
The monetary value of the miles can’t be much so there must be more to the story
When I replaced the rears I bought exactly what was already on the car.
The savings I mentioned in that post was on the two rear OEMs compared to what the identical tires cost elsewhere at the time.
Those have a 2017 production date, so they’re now 6-7 years old. (How long before I’m a rolling menace on the freeway?)
My instinct now is to replace all four with all-season / non-RFTs. The rears have to be half gone again, and they weren’t outrageously expensive.
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Yeah nothing wrong with that idea either.
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That’s what I would do if this car is sticking around.
Get it some Conti DWS06 or Michelin Pilot A/S 4’s
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I love this car (for this use case) and was basically planning to get another 7, but I wouldn’t drive one with the current design to a cockfight.
Fingers crossed for the LCI, but I’m really not optimistic.
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Only guarantee is that the grille gets bigger.
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More mental gymnastics over here… 
Curious if these recommendations were made based on durability/treadlife or performance/handling.
My bias is to always choose based on the latter, but …
I’ve done a quick, honest assessment of how the car is actually used, and the “spirited driving” that isn’t straight- line acceleration from suburban stoplights consists of 3 or 4 on/offramps between home and the airport. And the car itself isn’t exactly designed to push the envelope around curves.
OTOH… the biggest problem now is that the power that can be delivered to the rear wheels exceeds the tire’s ability to move the car accordingly, so I suppose that tips the scales back in favor of grip / performance.
That discussion is best left for model-specific threads since it’s such a model-specific question.
This thread is about hacking the best price/value on the next set of tires.
Yes and no… There seems to be a lot of variations with EVs - far more than on the ICE cars - as far as real life experience with tire wear. From limited data points I’ve seen, EQS SUVs seem to shred tires less than the EQS sedans regardless of the battery size. Seems counterintuitive, right?
BMW and Audi owners may not look at EQS thread and vice versa. Given that we’re still very early in the luxury EV game and even Tire Rack has very limited resources on those tires, it might be helpful to share experiences cross brands to make for better decisions shopping for those tires. Do you think it’d be better on it’s own thread if you want to keep this one as strictly hacking?
Yes that probably makes the most sense
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This could be useful if you’re shopping for replacement tires before turning in your lease… Check your Amex cards.
Also:
For the tires I need for a car I’ll continue to drive, they’re priced the same here, at Discount Tire, and Tire Rack.
Difference is that Tire Rack includes two years of road hazard coverage for free, but it’s $40-50 per tire at the other two.
So I think I’m going to order mine from Tire Rack and have them shipped to Discount Tire for installation (one of the two DT locations in our metro area that also does alignments).
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