Question for the hacker community - I filtered current inventory around me (own state, and distance I’m willing to drive out of state) for the cars I’m looking into (i4, ioniq 6) and found cars that show “arriving soon”. The ones in stock are either not the configuration I want, or there simply is no stock around me. Based on what I’ve read and learned, most dealerships offer deals on inventory that’s on the lot - should I then wait for those units to arrive before I even start approaching/emailing them proposals I configure through the calculator here?
In theory, if you know a car is in transit to a dealer, then there’s nothing wrong with calling/emailing them your offer before it actually arrives on the lot. Of course make sure you include the specific VIN or stock # of the car you want.
Doesn’t really matter. If they’re willing to make a deal, they’ll do it whether it’s on the way or just arrived. Usually, it only matters if it’s been on the lot for a while.
2 Likes
I disagree. The move makes you look more desperate, so you lose leverage. Dealerships want to move in-stock units, especially those that have been sitting. That’s when you get hacker pricing. Otherwise, your pricing will be middling. If you’re not looking for a deep deep discount this approach is fine. But if you want a proper deal, wait until the inventory is there.
2 Likes
He’s gonna have to wait until that inventory is sitting there for a while.
1 Like
That’s what I was thinking as well - to wait for it to sit on the lot seems a bit much with no guarantee it’s even going to sit there. Thanks all.
Based on your research, what type of deals are possible on those two cars in your region?
Not always the case. I will explain shortly.
How soon do you need a car? In 2 weeks or 2 months?
Back in March, I was looking to lease an Ioniq 5 on the East Coast. After doing some research, I narrowed down the trim and the color combination I wanted. Long story short, I was able to make a deal on a car, although it was not yet on the dealer’s lot. I just had to put a refundable deposit down (equal to first month’s payment) to reserve the car.
1 Like
Based on your research, what type of deals are possible on those two cars in your region?
For the i4 I don’t see deals other than the manufacturer lease rebate. But looking at marketplace, it seemed like there was a possibility I could get a bit of discount on MSRP if I can find the right dealer.
For the ioniq 6 - there’s very limited inventory in my region so I’m forced to look out of state. But if I’m willing to get my car shipped from CA, there’s inventory that I want and some dealers seem to be offering a discount (at least on purchases). They also have weird accessories like one had a “Stealth GPS tracker” which I’ll have to ask them about. Their add-ons + shipping fee - dealer discount is sort of cancelling out so again I’ll have to email and try to find a dealer who can give a deeper discount (or just not add any accessories).
How soon do you need a car? In 2 weeks or 2 months?
Not urgent, but I’ve been researching which car I want for so long that it’s starting to get exhausting. I can still wait though.
Back in March, I was looking to lease an Ioniq 5 on the East Coast. After doing some research, I narrowed down the trim and the color combination I wanted. Long story short, I was able to make a deal on a car, although it was not yet on the dealer’s lot. I just had to put a refundable deposit down (equal to first month’s payment) to reserve the car.
That’s awesome. Gives me hope since I can then try some dealers in my area as well. What I’m afraid of is that they will not offer deals if the demand is high and supply is low.
There are definitely deals on the BMW i4 in the Marketplace. What discount off MSRP are your targeting?
What discount off MSRP are California brokers offering on this car?
Still does not answer my question. Would you jump on a deal next week if a dealer/broker met your target payment?
There are definitely deals on the BMW i4 in the Marketplace. What discount off MSRP are your targeting?
Yeah, that’s what I meant - Targeting 10-12% off on MSRP.
What discount off MSRP are California brokers offering on this car?
I found a couple who were offering $2k off in addition to the $7500 but then added accessories of $1000. Net extra I would say is $1000 on average. MSRP was roughly $50,500 so that’s about 4% off from MSRP but 2% in reality. I want to see if I can get them to 10-12% off range as well.
Still does not answer my question. Would you jump on a deal next week if a dealer/broker met your target payment?
If a dealer has the color (two options so being flexible) + trim I want and meets my price then I would sign tomorrow. Earlier I was trying to imply that if I don’t see anyone meet that price I am prepared to wait a little.
Have you reached out to brokers in the Marketplace ?
Are you actually asking brokers here on leasehackr or dealerships?
Then youre not looking very hard
1 Like
BTW, OP reached out to a West Coast broker not long ago.
@rg_lease 12.5% off MSRP + rebates should make for a pretty good deal. I hope you folllowed up with the broker.
1 Like
Yes that’s correct - I haven’t finished drafting that email to IAC yet but it’s on my todo list for the i4.
For the ioniq 6’s I’m doing most of the research myself and the discounts I mentioned were on dealer’s pages.
Then youre not looking very hard
@ mllcb42 maybe? Maybe I’m looking hard but missing some obvious places since I’m new to this, cause I’ve spent multiple days looking. I’m not too keen on paying shipping fees when the car is already expensive so I’m looking anywhere in the WA/OR area. If you know something, please do let me know!
Lets say shipping is $1500, but you get an extra 10% off on a $60k msrp vehicle.
Would you pay $1500 to save $6000?
For me, it’s not a simple question of A - B. If the result is still more than what I want to spend on a car then I’d rather wait for it to come from a dealer that I can pick it up from OR just go for a different car if I need it sooner.
Think of it this way - if someone offered my $20k off on a $100,000 car I would still refuse.
So what’s your monthly budget + the amount you want to pay upfront (due at signing)?
And what % discount is required to get you there