I’m looking for a AWD EV with super cruise (equinox or cadillac optiq). I got this deal from a local cadillac dealer for one-pay
But when I enter the numbers (for rebate, mf, residual) in the leasehackr site, I get very different numbers (dealer: ~16k, site:~12k)
I’m new to one-pay deals - am I doing the calculation wrong?
Can you post a link to your calculator?
Post your calc, but in any case this is a huge over pay for an optiq, and includes a bunch of unnecessary add ons. It seems you’ve done some research on what to expect. Have you constructed a target one-pay deal based on the incentives you qualify for + a realistic but strong pre-incentive rebate? You should be reaching out to dealers making offers on specific units for the price you will sign, instead of asking for quotes.
Link above
Thank you for the feedback. This community has been very helpful!
I dont’ see many other deals posted in WA. For reasons I dont’ understand, it seems like deals in WA are generally harder to come by? That said, appreciate your feedback. I did see another deal for a similar car for 8k one-pay in WA which is when I started exploring the option but haven’t found anyone come even close in their quotes. Maybe I need to change tack as you suggest.
Appreciate any more feedback based on calculations as I’m still struggling to understand where the add-ons are in the dealer quote!
p.s
What are the unnecessary add-ons you are seeing?
For starters your calculator doesn’t have any taxes or fees included.
Too much information missing (e.g., sales tax rate). Cash due at signing is not necessarily the one-pay amount but includes the one-pay amount. It should be itemized. The dealer’s worksheet is garbage which is not unusual. Never ever capitalize fees in a one-pay lease. It appears that some fees were capped which is pure stupidity.
Bottom line: This lease is horrible… no dealer discount given. FWIW…
Don’t waste time trying to decipher a dealer’s worksheet. Otherwise, you’re allowing them to control the deal. They often omit relevant detail such as the money factor; don’t itemize fees and occasionally make mistakes. Rely on credible outside sources (e.g., LH marketplace and LH signed deals and tips, Edmunds, etc.).
Yes, dealer worksheet input data can be useful. However, all dealer-provided data must be vetted such as acquisition fee, doc fee (regulated by some states), cost of money (e.g., money factor, gov fees, residual, rebates, sales tax rate, etc.). Make sure the residual matches the term and annual mileage requirement. Check available tax credits/incentives via the dealer who may issue tax credits or assess a lower sales tax rate to energize sales for some models (e.g., Texas).
Research selling prices in your market coupled with reasonable expectations. Sometimes, dealers embed rebates in their discount. Keep them separate. Get a list of customer rebates, incentives, and credits (e.g., electric chargers) including VIN-specific discounts, if any. The dealer has such a list. GM calls their list the Customer Incentive Acknowledgement form which includes manufacturer rebate and incentive disclosures. Restrictions may apply to the extent that some rebates may not be disclosed such as college grad, military, educators, AMEX, Costco, etc.
Secure a copy of the factory window sticker. Check for non-factory add-ons or dealer-installed options. If possible, eliminate those you don’t want or need.
Organize all researched and vetted data with the goal of creating a one-page professional-looking lease proposal that reflects your target deal. The idea is to create your own deal, not replicate or reverse engineer the dealer’s deal.
Once you’ve performed all calculations having gathered, vetted, and organized all data, craft a lease proposal and email it to the sales manager (SM), not a floor salesperson as they often lack knowledge and are tethered to their SM. Be sure to contact the SM first to let them know you’re emailing them a one-page lease proposal because you want to close the deal today or, at the very latest, tomorrow. Send the proposal as soon as you hang up. It must be comprehensive, authoritative, professional-looking, and flawless otherwise, you’ll lose credibility.
Negotiate via phone/email. I prefer the phone. Be nice but firm. Explain to them that it is your practice not to deal with multiple dealers simultaneously and that you refuse to play games like “can you match or beat this”. Above all, say what you mean and mean what you say. Remember that local dealers know each other. Speak in a commanding and business-like voice that exudes confidence and knowledge. Unless they’re very stupid, once they see your fabulous proposal it will speak volumes. They’ll immediately know it’s time to put away their toys and board games and get down to business absent all the BS.
Once an agreement is reached, ask the dealer for a review copy of the lease agreement and all contract addenda BEFORE you go to the dealer and sign. Moreover, it’s helpful to know the terms and conditions of the lease contract such as early termination liability criteria and purchase option criteria as well as excess wear/tear criteria. If all the terms are mutually agreed, tell the SM that you’ll come in to sign in an hour or two. You don’t want any surprises or dealer excuses like …. Oh, we made a mistake. That’s unacceptable and shouldn’t be tolerated.
If the dealer isn’t transparent or is uncooperative or showing signs of incompetence, WALK AWAY AND MOVE ON!
Leasing is time-consuming and requires a good deal of study and attention to detail. If you don’t have the time or interest to commit, perhaps your best alternative is a good broker. There are some outstanding brokers on the LH website. However, if you’re willing to commit your time and resources, be sure to always control the deal. That can only be achieved with education which breeds confidence and increases the likelihood of success.
??? Let me know.
Yes, and I think people assume it’s b/c of lots of tech wealth + not as many dealers as, say, California.
Thank you very much for the great detailed response! I did not know of the existence of brokers - will explore WA ones. Will also try writing up my lease proposal as you suggest.
Thank you very much for the great detailed response!
How does this look (made with help of chatgpt)?
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Lease Proposal – Cadillac OPTIQ AWD with Super Cruise
Thank you for your time and for discussing the lease options on the Cadillac OPTIQ AWD with Super Cruise. I’m prepared to move forward if we can agree on the following terms.
New 2025 Cadillac OPTIQ AWD with Super Cruise
MSRP: $53,000
MSRP: $53,000
Manufacturer rebates: $3,000
Selling price after rebates: $49,000
GM Financial One-Pay Lease
24-month term
12,000 miles per year
Residual value: $40,750
Money factor: 0.00110 (buy rate, no dealer markup)
Total one-pay amount due at signing: $11,000
No dealer-installed accessories, protection packages, or aftermarket products unless specifically requested.
Please provide a complete GM Financial lease worksheet showing:
Gross capitalized cost
Adjusted capitalized cost
Residual value
Money factor
Acquisition fee
Depreciation charge
Finance (rent) charge
Taxes and government fees
Total one pay amount due at signing
Based on the above assumptions, my target is a competitive one-pay lease using GM Financial’s one-pay program with the stated money factor and no additional dealer markups or add-on products below $11000.
If we can structure the lease on these terms, I’m prepared to complete the transaction promptly.
Thank you, and I look forward to your proposal.
WHOA! You should be creating your own lease proposal. You need to learn how to calculate lease payments/single pay payment. It’s your job to construct a thorough and comprehensive one-page professional looking lease proposal that is flawless otherwise, you risk losing credibility. Suggest you don’t use Chapstick or any other AI platform. I’ve seen them make too many mistakes. Below is a document I wrote dealing with one-pay leases that you may find helpful…
Single Payment Adjusted Lease Balance Calculations, Optimality, and Purchase Option.pdf (948.7 KB)
You can ignore the methods detailing adjusted lease balance (ALB) calculations. In fact, the last three pages are the most helpful. If you like, I’ll be happy to review your proposal.
