Hello All,
I’ve been on this site for over a month reviewing and reading the many posts on here - almost all have been beneficial to me in my quest to to getting a deal.
I’m currently in negotiation with a Mazda dealer in my area and I had recently (today) received an e-mail from said dealer with a TrueCar discount price. After agreeing with the dealer on a final selling price reflecting the TrueCar discount, I had explained to her that I’m eligible for the S Plan.
She is now reneging on her offer with the TrueCar discounted selling price and is now saying that I’m either eligible for the TrueCar price or the S Plan, they are not effectively stackable.
I wanted to get some insight on this and ask the hackr community on here if I’m qualified to stack the agreed upon TrueCar price, with the S Plan calculated thereafter, or is it the contrary, I’m only eligible for either/or?
Your insight is valued.
Thank you
I’m not familiar with S Plan, but probably the dealer is correct. TrueCar pricing can be set up as a net discount with incentives baked in, or at another price where TrueCar adds in the discounts they’re aware of. Chances are you’re asking for a duplication of discounts or incentives.
This was the TrueCar offer that specific dealer had sent me:
I simply asked her if the S Plan reflects the selling price you are offering with the TrueCar discount. Ostensibly, the TrueCar discount has dealer discount, Mazda customer cash and a bonus savings incentive.
I haven’t received any TrueCar discount from any other dealer in my area as I’m under their radar for TrueCar discount eligibility. The e-mail came directly from the Sales Manager from the specific dealer and not from any other dealership.
Now, I’m not arguing that they should be stacked, I’m just wondering if I am eligible to stack them considering I only received a TrueCar offer from them and no other dealer.
I suspect that stacking S Plan with the TrueCar discount would cut deeper on the dealer and that’s why they won’t do it.
TrueCar normally sends your inquiry to up to 3 dealers I believe. You could try using a different zip code in another search, in the direction of other Mazda dealers. Here’s a good resource:
https://forums.edmunds.com/discussions/tagged/mazda/cx-5
It only makes sense. Thanks for the info. I’ve been on Edmunds getting the MF/RV and calculating the deal the last couple of days before and after I received their offer.
Are you looking to lease? If so, there might be separate lease incentives. From what I’ve seen, the CX-5 leases out well.
Yes, I’m trying to lease the CX-5. Unfortunately, the Mazda dealers in my area (Midwest) are unwilling to compromise and looks like they are working with each other to conflate their pricing or just simply are offering horrible deals atm.
Consider letting us know what city you’re in and what distance you’re willing to travel and hopefully someone here can recommend a dealer. The selling price is only part of the puzzle in getting a lease payment. I’d suggest approaching the whole deal including payment.
Expand your search. Dealers will deliver to your door.
I was in talks with a broker on here in June but the offers were exceedingly what I’d expected so they all fell through. I suppose searching outside the boundaries of the dealerships in my area is plausable but it’s anovice idea for me albeit doable.
What exactly are your expectations?
My expectations are not to pay $367/month for a CX-5 lol.
Let us know the MSRP, S Plan price, MF and RV for the number of months you want, rebates if any, license and doc fees.
That’s fine. Are you looking to pay 250? 300? What are you realistically hoping to pay? If you’re looking too low, you either need to raise your expectations, or look at a different car. Mazdas aren’t known to typically lease great, and finding a loaded GT under 300/mo is unrealistic.
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I’d like to closer to the ~$300 mark in terms of the monthly installments. That’s where I’m having an issue. Hopefully my calculations came out right.
Thanks
If the MF is 0.00001 and RV is 57%, then the only way to get to $300 is to buy the car for around $29,850 unless you come up with more than $1,409. On the surface, your payments are about 1% of the MSRP, which isn’t bad for a 15,000 mile lease.
Have you already gotten an offer for a lease like that?
Not yet, I’m actually heading to the dealership on Thursday to see if they can knock off a little more to at least bring it closer to 300 and if they can do that, I’ll go ahead and sign. If they can’t and I can only haggle them for short change, I’d at least push for remote start (its an option - not standard), and 2 yrs of service with what their bottom line is.
Your thoughts?
How difficult would it be to get them down $600 from their selling price? In order to get make it $315 and call it a day?
I think you will be wasting your time negotiating at the dealership. Negatiate over email. Reach out to all nearby dealerships.
Is a remote start really going to seal the deal? How much can one be at an independent shop, $100-200?
