Wow what a deal! Thank you for the link. I wonder how hard it would be to replicate this at a local dealer…I’ve read about 0 cash at signing (and how it’s ideal) - I guess ideally I’d use the $ from my Rogue to get the monthly price within what I’d like to spend monthly. Again so very new to all of this. When I purchased my Rogue I was only 21 and my husband did all the negotiating, but I’m a big girl now and trying to do make sense of it with my own googling and lots of browsing this forum 
As @Chi_Ahrens said, you don’t want to use your Rogue payoff money to fund a lease.
You never want to put your money into a lease because if you get into another accident or have it stolen, you will never see your money back.
Use the Rogue payoff to payoff your loans, etc…
When negotiating for the Ford F150, you have to cast a net far away to get a good local deal sometimes.
When I was looking for an XLT trim, I had to go out of state to get a published low price (try eBay). Then I approached my local dealers with the numbers and got them to match it.
Right now, the XLT trim with 2.7L Ecoboost with 302A package are going at an extremely good rate.
Open a savings account to put this money into and then set it to autotransfer into checking each month to “reduce” your payment. Isolates you from the risk of losing your down payment and you can earn a bit of interest too
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Sent you a private message if you would consider Toyota. Being that they’re prob the most reliable truck, buying out at the end of the lease term would be least risky with Toyota imo.
Others have given good advice about never putting down money, and I’d also urge you to not ‘payment chase’. The payment is an output (result) of all the lease variables like MSRP/selling price/MF/RV/etc, not an input, and dealers will twist you in circles if you payment shop without doing your homework and making offers based on sales price and incentives that get you to the payment you wan to be at. Become friendly with the leasehackr calculator.
One comment unrelated to your lease but could net you more cash savings than a good lease negotiation - the first offer from an insurance company on a total loss is very negotiable and is typically a pretty big low ball. If you have not yet cashed the check, make sure the valuation is in line with not only KBB/Edmunds/etc, but also what a comparable replacement vehicle would actually cost. Go on autotrader and find 2008 Rogues in the same trim with similar miles/condition listed at local dealers, and fight your insurance company with that information. Maybe it is $6k, but maybe it is a lot more.
To give you an idea on a much larger scale - I had a homeowner’s claim last year, the first offer from the adjuster was $12k. I eventually ended up with a $53k settlement. Insurance companies can be really horrible to deal with, but the good ones value customer satisfaction and every state has some form of insurance oversight that they are terrified of having to deal with.
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Thank you for the advice! I did do that with my Rogue and ended up getting about 2k more than I thought I might get initially. I lost some to the deductible which I’m not counting on getting back at this point.
So ideally I would use the calculator to get an idea of what cap cost/incentives etc I’d need to get within my desired monthly payment?
A bigger related question I have is how to approach the dealer, I guess. Do I email them that I’m interested in car X and would like to lease, no money down, 10k mileage, 36 months and see what they can offer? Then do I negotiate from there? If they don’t/won’t get to where I need to be, do I take their offer to a different dealer and ask them to beat it? Do you mention that you’re interested in buying out at the end of the lease?
Thanks to everyone who has commented so far, this has been super helpful.
On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 10:08 AM Chris <noreply@forum.leasehackr.com> wrote:
chrishs2000
December 19Others have given good advice about never putting down money, and I’d also urge you to not ‘payment chase’. The payment is an output (result) of all the lease variables like MSRP/selling price/MF/RV/etc, not an input, and dealers will twist you in circles if you payment shop without doing your homework and making offers based on sales price and incentives that get you to the payment you wan to be at. Become friendly with the leasehackr calculator.
One comment unrelated to your lease but could net you more cash savings than a good lease negotiation - the first offer from an insurance company on a total loss is very negotiable and is typically a pretty big low ball. If you have not yet cashed the check, make sure the valuation is in line with not only KBB/Edmunds/etc, but also what a comparable replacement vehicle would actually cost . Go on autotrader and find 2008 Rogues in the same trim with similar miles/condition listed at local dealers, and fight your insurance company with that information. Maybe it is $6k, but maybe it is a lot more.
To give you an idea on a much larger scale - I had a homeowner’s claim last year, the first offer from the adjuster was $12k. I eventually ended up with a $53k settlement. Insurance companies can be really horrible to deal with, but the good ones value customer satisfaction and every state has some form of insurance oversight that they are terrified of having to deal with.
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Great job on the Rogue!! Most people just cash the check and move on 
This post is the best write up I have ever seen on negotiating tactic, IMO it should be in the FAQ of this site:
Still new here too, but wouldn’t you also want to consider adding in something like Extra Wear & Tear for the truck? I’m not sure what it is called - but, it basically adds on extra protection again scratches, etc. I just assume any truck is going to be used as a way of hauling materials. So, it will get pretty beat up (at least the truck bed will). Just a thought.
Definitely would be getting a liner in the bed. Otherwise the primary use besides getting me to work will be holding hunting, camping, and diving gear, along with an occasional trailer tow, definitely not planning on beating it up at all!
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Makes sense! Have you considered some of the less expensive options for trucks from Nissan / Toyota rather than the $40k+ models? There are quite a few in the $20k range now, and some in the $30-35k range.
Edit: Leasing-wise, you’ll want to reach out to find the lease price as the actual price of the vehicle isn’t as important as the residual or available incentives.
I just had to go with that litteraly two weeks ago. Didn’t have to fight as the report included 10 comparable cars from dealerships around and their current listed prices. I was pleasantly surprised and the offer was in line to actually get the same car that was a total loss rather than simple trade in value.
I gotcha. Yes I am looking at Tacomas now vs the half tons. Doesn’t help that the TRD offroad is the Tacoma I’d want though, heh.
I’m also relatively new at this, but that sounds “right” as long as you heed @chrishs2000 advice about not chasing the monthly payment. $4999 is (in an absolute sense) a lot due at signing. Depending on what the interest rate is on your student loans, why put money down on a car, if it would be better to pay off your student debt? (although, if the student debt is low and you got a good interest rate, maybe putting a little more down might make more sense?)
I generally agree w/ those who suggest you not put your $ into the lease, though… But only you and your husband know what will really work for you.
Colorado/Canyon and 2018 Silverados seem decent right now. Especially the Silverado on a purchase. Dealers are clearing inventory for the 2019’s. If it was my money though, I’d pay more for the awesome new Ram.
That actually is an idea worth considering… I’ll have to do some math.
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Take a look at the remaining 2018 Toyota Tundras.
They have a super low MF (0.00076) in California plus a huge dealer discount which makes it a bargain !
Ask @Cody_Carter for a great price on some great leftover 2018’s
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The f150s dont lease as well as some of the other brands, although in my opinion they are the bar in terms of tech and engine specs and they look nice, a supercrew base xlt with 4wd is at least 40k and you are probably looking a 300s lease payment on those(same for most 1/2 ton trucks) , not sure your hauling needs but the 5.0 coyote and 3.5 ecoboost are absolute monsters, we just used our 3.5 ecoboost to haul 3000 lbs of tile roughly 90 minutes, the truck was sitting lower but no difference in acceleration and still got 18 mpg on the highway. It all depends on how much you’re willing to pay monthly, the rams are also very nice and lease well too. Not a big fan of gm and chevy I feel like they are behind ram and ford even after their new redesign. The toyota tundra is really reliable but the truck looks extremely dated and they will be refreshing very soon, not sure if a dated look bothers you. The Tacoma got refreshed a few years back so they probably wont go into their fourth gen until 2025, again if dated looks matter to you the tacoma would be better as its not far into its new gen. Either way best of luck!
Thank you guys again for all the help and advice. I happened to come across what seems like a good lease deal on a 2019 Ram 1500. I took a screenshot and sent it to a couple dealers who have reached out to me already and asked if they can match or beat with less $ down, add in heated seats, and 2 yr vs 3 yr lease. Interested to see what they might come back with.
http://www.forestlakechrysler.com/inventory/2019/RAM/1500/MN/Forest%20Lake/1C6RRFFG7KN719733/
With incentives price includes: $1000 Bonus Cash - USAA Member (must obtain certificate from USAA online car shopping service), $500 Bonus Cash - Conquest Lease (must have current competitive brand lease)
24 month lease. 10,000 miles per year, $0.25 per mile over. $1999 due at signing, includes first monthly payment and acquisition fee. Tax, title, and license are extra.
Im assuming you don’t have a competitive lease so that’s $500 off the table and then you must have usaa insurance and get the certificate through them and that is $1000.
Assuming you put 2k at signing not factoring in your taxes will put you at $263 a month. I’m not sure if they are factoring in taxes. Next you have to look at that 2k due at signing, subtract $250 as your first months payment, then say $750 is your acquisition fee, that leaves you with $1000 in cap cost reduction that has been snuck in which is another $42 bringing your grand total to $300 with 1k due at signing but not factoring extras like tax title tag etc, so like I said 300s with minimal driveoffs is what you’re looking at. It’s still a great deal on a 46k truck in my opinion but it’s a steal if you have conquest and are a usaa member.
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