Does anybody know what this author is referring to re the 10-14%? Sounds like it must be VIP…but what are the parameters for VIP to apply? Is it impacted by status as current Audi owner or lessee as some kind of loyalty deal? The article came so close to being informative and helpful…so close.
I’m an idiot. I thought the previous owner removed the Homelink buttons but I now realize that, on an RS Etron GT, the Homelink is through the infotainment system. Can someone take a pic of the area above the rearview mirror? In my photo, you can see the integrated radar detector. I’m just trying to see what was there before. A pic would save me a trip to the Audi dealership.
Worth taking the car in for service? Aside from my “recommended inspection” light that comes on, I’ve gotten an air suspension fault warning 3x over 3 months that says not to drive over 30mph. However, when I turn the car off and restart, it’s fine. And I just got an “adaptive light malfunction” that also went away once I restarted the car.
The dealer is saying they will need to have the car for 4-5 days but no loaner cars are available until Dec. I have extra cars but I question whether it is worth taking the car in for what could be longer than 5 days to fix an error that goes away upon restart. I’m 4 months into a 12 month lease.
It seems to happen when I try to connect to a high speed public charging station that appears to be functional, but actually isn’t (I’m looking at you, EA.)
This particular instance happened when I connected to an EA station that wasn’t operating correctly.
I eventually disconnected from that charger and reconnected to another at the same EA location, where I then encountered an apparent payment system error:
… and the delayed text notification problem was noted on the same EA visit.
Concurrent with the errors on the instrument display, the circular lighted status indicator inside the charging access door on the car shows solid red, and it takes some patience and hope before the charging cable is eventually released from the car.
(Which begs the question: there must be a way to force the car to release the cable, but I haven’t researched how. Anyone know?)
There are only about four possible PINs I would have chosen, and none of them work. Every unsuccessful attempt now locks out the next retry for 24 hours.
I believe resetting the PIN requires me to delete or reset my entire driver profile, which is really annoying.
(I also recall at least attempting to set up iPhone’s facial recognition, but the app always asks for a PIN)
Haven’t had that one yet… the newest gremlin is when I enter a parking garage, the safety systems disable bc it cannot communicate with audi server(s).
Starts as a small warning, turns into a caution symbol on my dash shortly thereafter.
Asking here even though I have a q8 etron since I figure the systems are very similar - has anyone gotten plug and charge to work at DC fast charging stations? Esp at EA stations?
You can usually do something in between that’s not hard to DIY. Most detectors have a cheap hardwire kit you can buy- subs in a different cable (like a telephone cable/ connector). I’ve routed a cable like that along the inside of the windshield glass, around and down the a pillar and to a free fuse location or pickup in the fuse panel (driver’s side). Maybe 30 minutes of work max if basic electrical doesn’t scare you. Done it with the V1 in a few different cars, including the remote display which increases complexity slightly.
Not bothering in my GT even though it’s very easy to speed in- the locals switched to laser a few years back. Decided it’s not worth going the jammer route…
Unfortunately I have zero aptitude (and even less patience) in this area.
Not that I would take my car there, but I just checked Best Buy’s web site and it looks like they charge $80 plus hardware, and that sounds about right based on the effort you described.