Listen, happy wife happy life. Get what she wants so one year later you aren’t stuck trying to get rid of a new car. Your wallet might hurt a bit, but at least you can sleep in bed at night.
I know your talking thousands more, but as others have said, happy wife happy life. If you convince her to settle for the Palisade, your wife will be settling for something less attractive only because it’s the logical thing to do, but buying a car is also very emotional. And that has value!
I “settled” for a Honda Insight Hybrid last year over an Accord Hybrid because it was $8k less. This is a work car (I drive a lot) and I reasoned the $8k extra was not worth it & I have regretted settling ever since.
Being one of those people who refuses to pay a dime over MSRP for any car, I’d wait this crazy car market out. My approach would be to request a lease extension on my existing lease, even if they will only do it for another two or three months. The situation with the chip shortages is starting to resolve itself and demand is starting to diminish with free money/low interest rates drying up. Also, used car market is clearly a bubble and will collapse into itself once dealer high velocity rates settle. Both these situations will create a buyers market in the automobile industry and those ADM will be off the table for even the most sought after vehicles (i.e., Kia Telluride) for a period of time. Wait it out…
Care to share where you are seeing demand drying up for cars?
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The demand hasn’t dried up as much as the Repossessions have skyrocketed.
That doesn’t really make any sense. MSRP is just a number on a piece of paper and it can literally be anything the OEM wants.
If you bought a Telluride MY2022 instead of 21 you paid $700-1,000 more depending on options … all because an arbitrary number on a piece of paper said so.
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This may be the dumb question of the day, but since MSRP is an arbitrary number, how does someone determine when it could make sense to pay over MSRP and by how much? Is that determination based on the market value and if so, what’s the best source to make the determination? Also wondering if the determination is skewed because of the market now and what could happen if the market starts to normalize.
I ask because even though it’s a few months away, I want to determine if it could still make sense to pay over MSRP for the Lyriq.
pretty sure this gets really subjective. doesnt warren buffet drive a '14 xts?
The same way one determines when it makes sense to pay x% under msrp
Auction prices (e.g., MMR) for like-new used examples could be a good indicator of the market. As @AutoNinjas pointed out above, even two year old examples of Kia Tellurides have MMR prices right around MSRP.
Harder to do so for Cadillac LYRIQ given deliveries have just started. But comparing the number of customer reservations to the number of actual deliveries could also be an indicator, as well as looking at things like order wait times and overall availability of inventory.
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What other brands are selling below MSRP? I understand if it is at MSRP, but c’mon
The Marketplace shows BMW, Audi, CDJR, Hyundai, Mazda, Volvo… granted most are orders or in-transit vehicles, not existing dealer inventory.
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Plenty (well, relatively) of dealer inventory here.
I’m curious how true this is for new cars. There were a bunch of articles a few weeks back about this but those all seemed to be based mostly on one Barron’s interview with Lucky Lopez, a used car dealer/YouTube personality out of las vegas.
In reality it is probably true but impossible to know since banks don’t release that info.
Toyota, and Lexus! At least , in my area!
Not a dumb question. Ideally what you’d want to see is a good track record of value retention. Because depreciation is probably going to be the largest component of your TCO (total cost of ownership).
Edit to add: forums are a good place to start determining market valuation. For example, long before COVID and chip shortages, Tellurides were being ordered at sticker, discounts were quite rare and ADMs were common. So once you’d determined that 0% discount was the best reasonable target for the line item of “selling price” you then work to minimize your OTD total via all the other line items. Doc fee, cost of bringing it home, finance APR, any trade etc etc.
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Who also referenced the repos he was talking about being $1000/mo payments on $2500/mo incomes… which should surprise no one and likely not be an reflection, one way or the other, of the whole market.
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Came here for S/EX jokes. Left disappointed.
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Just like my wife
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Neither, those would both have to be under MSRP to be tempting.