I’ve leased before & realized I could & should be getting better terms. I’ve never done single pay but figured if it can save, may be worth it. I’ve worked some numbers and want to see how this looks given I don’t have MF and am merely going off approximates. So here goes…
South Carolina-
Both for 36 months, 12k miles
18 MDX fwd base
Negotiated sales price $40,100
Residual $26,213
$435/month
$18,680 single pay
19 RDX base
Sales price $37k
Residual $24,125
$404/month
$17,568 single pay
That’s what they’re saying but I’m not sure what to shoot for as I haven’t done the single pay option before… from what I’ve been told I should be seeing around $2500 saved on each Lease.
Doesn’t hurt to get quotes, then get your local guys to match. Is it worth a 2 hour drive to save $2k or $3k, you’re doing yourself a disservice if you don’t get a couple quotes. Just saying…
Yes, as @joeblogs said, expand your search. A little extra legwork can save you tons. I live in NC and just leased a QX60 from PA because the pricing was so much better. Leverage all the ATL dealers to see with what they come back with. Also, QX60 is leasing at a much more attractive price compared to MSRP, if you would be willing to look at something other than MDX/RDX.
I’m only looking at the MDX numbers since the RDX isn’t a good deal. With those numbers, you are saving ~$1209 over the entire lease term. There is currently $2050 in incentives, which means the dealer is only giving you a 5% discount. You should be shooting for closer to 10%.
I think here is a simple way to compare: Interest per month = (cap cost + RV) x MF. For one-pay, cap cost = RV. For monthly, cap cost is selling price + all roll in fees - drive off (exclude MSD).
For MDX, monthly MF = 0.0005 = 1.2% APR. For one pay, MF =0.00001 or 0.26% APR. The difference is 1%. Could you generate >1% return somewhere else? Should be easy, right? Plus no risk of losing the entire one-pay due to any misharp to the car. Personlly, I won’t do one-pay in in this case.