Yeah, given what they’d offer you walking in off the street in my area it isn’t bad at all, but I’m no expert by any means.
I have a Mach E lease that I’m not very happy with and have someone who wants to take it over, but before I started that process I was curious what kind of numbers I could get if I traded in the Mach E w/ the negative equity and I got what I felt was an absolutely ludicrous offer of $1180/mo on a Luxury 2 Optiq. That included ~8500 in negative equity on the Mach E, but even still, I was floored. Needless to say I politely told him I wasn’t interested and started trying to transfer my lease and start over instead.
24 month deal on the Lac?
Honestly he didn’t even say and after the initial offer I didn’t ask for clarification lol. I had initiated the contact via their website and asked for numbers on a 36 month lease w/ Costco exec, conquest, and gave him the current buyout price on the Mach E after some emails back and forth. So I think that number was including all of the possible rebates I qualified for.
Reason I ask is that on a 24-month term, just your neggy eggy before interest is over $350/month
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Florida notoriously does not have a legal limit on doc fees, and the lessee chose to accept the $2k stealership package. It otherwise seems in line with what you’d expect with current incentives and RV.
Gotcha makes sense, I knew it would be a significant portion but even then that’s like $800+ a month on Optiq, which seems quite high for a car with an MSRP in the high 50’s, given all of the rebates typically involved with EVs.
Went to the other Cadillac dealer around here to test drive a Sport 2 and they basically insisted on throwing a worksheet at me before I could leave, and it’s real bad.
60090 MSRP (no discount)
3250 incentives (conquest + costco)
36/10k
$754/mo
$4,578 DAS for tax, title, fees + first
Car has been sitting on their lot for more than 220 days and I can see why.
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Do you have a target deal on this Cadillac? Rarely will a dealer ever “offer” you the deal you’re looking for. If you like this vehicle put together a deal and post it here (not including the negative equity). Once you come to a target on what you’d do before the negative equity, then you can add that into the equation. Once you have that worked out, start proposing your deal to the dealers.
To be taken seriously, your numbers have to be correct. Even if your offer is aggressive make sure the way you calculate the deal is accurate. If it’s not, you’ve lost your credibility. If your numbers are correct, then they know you are well versed in how leases are structured/calculated.
Yeah thanks, I do appreciate the advice, I’m still in selection mode deciding between a few different EVs so I’m not at that point yet. I’ve been getting acquanted with the calculator and using broker deals for a baseline knowing that I’m unlikely to hit those, but scaling then down a bit when thinking things over. Planning to use that to structure something I’d like and present that when I make my choice. Mostly just complaining about Cadillac vs the others right now 
Don’t wait too long on EV’s. The federal tax credits end in Sept. I think. Once that happens, who knows what will happen. If the manufacturers don’t step in with more incentives to offset the loss of that money, then the cost on an EV will skyrocket.
Can this be replicated in California? I’m looking for one
The sales tax is calculated different in CA. The only way you can really compare this to what is achievable in CA is to try to replicate this deal PRE TAX then use those numbers for a CA deal, then add in the CA sales tax.
The only way to compare deals from out of state is to look at them PRE TAX then add your appropriate state taxes.
