I usually try to get in contact with sales manager directly. Finding their email on web site works in most cases. And then I send unsolicited detailed email with reference to specific stock #, detailed explanation of what rebates I qualify for and all other info pertaining to my offer, telling them if they would be willing to entertain such offer, I am ready to sign.
Sometimes SM’s emails aren’t available, then I go thru internet manager or submit inquiry thru web site’s “contact us” form, but I’m telling sales person who gets assigned on my lead to just get my offer to SM as quickly as possible to not waste anyone’s time here.
I’d suggest keeping remaining payments/trade out of the picture. No one is going to eat your payment(s) + dispo, especially if they already are at cost/losing money on your new deal. You’re paying those either way: separately or rolling into new lease. Unless you have real pull ahead offer from the bank as a returning customer. I like to keep things separated for clarity sake. The less variables when evaluating the deal - the better IMO.
Deal signed. I decided to add 3 year prepaid maintenance with pick-up/drop-offs of loaners at the residence for $350 after they offered it. Final deal is $490 mo/$350 DAS.
I dealt directly with GSM, he said he can replicate this: 9.8% off of MSRP dealer discount with low NY dealer fees + whatever rebates you qualify for on RX. PM me for the info if interested.
Wow good for you! Anyone in Florida can replicate this deal??? I was at dealership today they wanted over $600 on a base with nothing extra on it and zero down.
Dumb question but where is the tax in your numbers? Looks like it’s paid upfront in NY but who paid it, when did they pay it, where is it accounted for in your numbers on the calculator? Don’t kill me, honest question.
No, not a dumb question. Yes, even though NY state requires taxes to be paid upfront, you can add whole or part of tax amount to capital cost. You are rolling that amount in your monthly payment, and instead of you paying it upfront, lease bank pays it. You then just re-pay it back to the bank as a part of increased monthly payment.
If you uncheck “capitalize upfront tax” in calculator, you will see tax amount that is required to be paid, either as part of drive-offs or capitalized.
Agh ok - I see it. So you had 2 options regarding tax:
$490/month total with $350 drive off, OR
$436/month total with $2076 drive off.
I am assuming you chose option 1 to follow the adage of “pay as little upfront as possible” ie “keep the money in your own pocket as long as possible and shift the risk of an accident to the bank” - is that correct?
To add, it’s not like there were only these 2 options, dealer can structure the deal any way you want, in terms of drive-off vs what’s capped: you can capitalize all drive-offs, tax + fees, just a portion of the above or none. To reflect that in calculator, you just add the amount you want to be capped as a negative downpayment.
To reflect that drive-offs were only $350 for PPM, because 1st month is waived in March, but you can’t show that in calculator with standard “capitalize all payments except MSD” option.
So it took $600 to be added to cap cost for actual drive off to match $350.
I need help. My closest dealer doesn’t even want to talk to me when I show them this deal. But dealers hours away said they would do it. I am not able to drive three hours and come back with my car and the new car, plus I have two toddlers. What else can I do for the dealer to go near this price?
