“Should I buy out my lease?” super-thread

Etron 2019 premium lease coming up in a couple of months. End of lease buyout is $38k, can end up owning the vehicle for a little less than $60k. Is this worth it…assuming the etron 2019 will be worth much less in the coming years…
Other option for that same amount of money is to get the latest model 3 long range…or negotiate a hackr deal on an eqe possibly…
Will have to look into financing the $38k as well…

Thanks!

Option B and brand new.

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I am planning to buy out my lease on a 2020 Hyundai Ioniq SE due 7/31. The residual is ~15,940 and I will not be paying any taxes as NJ state has no tax on EV. For 36/12k miles I have paid 11,052 (minus 4250 NJ Clean energy rebate). I have only driven 22k miles.

I think with the net cost on the vehicle @23k, it seems to make sense to buy out the lease.

Appreciate if anyone has any feedback on this buy out. TIA.

You should run the numbers against a lease buyout of something like a brand new Ioniq 5 including NJCU rebate.

My lease is up next month. I already made my last payment. Carmax offered me 29k and vroom 29200 (cant sell it to them). Mazda dealerships only offered me 25k (buyout is 25500). I finally found a mazda dealership that after some back and forth offered me 27250, so I would net 1750.

My current lease is quiet good (2021). Basically 1st month and title DAS and a payment of roughly 360 tax inc for a 40k 3-row SUV.

I cant seem to find anything remotely close to that even for the smaller SUVs.

Should I take the equity and continue to shop another lease with the equity on hand, or should I just buyout my lease (est. Payments of 550). Unless there is a 3 row SUV that leases really well. I tried the pathfinder with no luck.

You should ask your dealer about loyalty and how long it lasts

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If you like the mazda, why lease it? Mazda should be getting financed. It’s a waste of money if you keep leasing the same car

I will not be getting another CX9. Leasing is no longer supported, and they only CX90s anyway.

We do like the car, but going up on 200 extra per month on payments is not something we want to do.

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That’s a very good point. I should find out.

Is the dealer going to write you a check or put the equity towards a new car.
I think the later.

They are gonna write me a check for 1750 which is the equity. I’m not buying a car from them.

That’s not something anyone wants to do but pissing away money on a terrible lease is even worse.

Hi Hackrs -

First-timer seeking advice for Volvo lease-end.

Hoping to understand and follow the most financially sound route while considering Volvo’s long-term reliability (e.g., 1) buyout and keep or 2) buyout, sell, and lease or 3) return and lease).

As an additional note, a buyout would require financing (800+ credit)

My family and I have been enjoying the car and Volvo brand, but we would appreciate any guidance on potential next steps as we’re first-timers in this space and would like to learn how to best think through the options.

Thanks in advance :slight_smile:

Model: 2020 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD Momentum

Miles: 22K

Term: 10K / 36 Months

Lease End: Sept. 2023

Monthly Lease: $438

MSD: $4.5K

Residual Value: $33K

KBB: $31K - $36K

Condition: Excellent (no issues or complaints)

State: NJ

Qualified for Costco, Affinity, and Loyalty incentives

Buy it and keep it.

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Honda HR-V LX (front wheel drive) [gray] – San Diego

We are moving from San Diego to Denver and are looking to get our existing lease bought out by Honda Financials. There is 6 months left on the lease, premium to buy out the lease is $13,664 and the dealer has appraised the car for $18,135 two weeks ago. We are going in this week to get the car reappraised and complete the deal.

We know that we could get a better deal through services such as CarMax/carvana but the title transfer will not be complete before we move, so we are only looking at going through Honda financial since we can get the deal done in one day and walk out. We are relatively happy with the proposed deal, but want to make sure we get the most out of our situation and thought I’d come here since lease hacker was a saviour when originally negotiating the lease (monthly payment is $195 – would have been $160 with a better credit score).

We think we can get more out of the deal for a couple reasons:

  • We got the 15,000 mile/year option since it was originally for daily commuting and long distance road trips, however my work is now remote and we travelled less than we anticipated. The car only has 20100 miles on it, out of the 45000 allotted for the lease, thus I’d argue that the lease buyout premium should be lower as we are paying for extra miles that was not foreseen when originally negotiating the lease – as a result I believe we could argue that the buyout premium of $13644 could be negotiated down, but am unsure how sticky those terms are.

  • The car has been regularly serviced and well taken care of, no damage at all, not even minor scratches/dings. We have had no issues with the car either. The tires still have a good amount of tread as well.

  • The same model & trim with similar milage is going for around $22-24k on used car websites leaving quite a gap between the appraised value from Honda financials and the market value (obviously Honda have to make some return on the deal).

  • We also paid for the service package

  • We bought 3rd party floor mats for both the front and rear seats, as well as the trunk, but I imagine Honda won’t keep these as they are not the brand/option that they offer customers.

What I would like to know is the following:

  • what is my best way to negotiate a higher appraisal value?
  • is the lease buyout value a non negotiable term? If not, is my point above about the miles/yr a valid negotiation tool?
  • what would you say is the fair value of the car?
  • is there anything I am missing that could help us negotiate a better deal?
  • am I being unrealistic for trying to squeeze the dealership for more?
  • how much room for negotiation is there on this end of the deal?
  • Which terms are negotiable? (lease buy out cost vs appraised value of car)
  • Is there competition between Honda dealerships, or does Honda financial remove any competition (i.e could we take an offer from one dealership to another and see if they would compete on the appraisal value).
  • Are there any rebates that would work in our favour?

Things to consider:

  • The vehicle has been used to transport my dog to and from the dog parks/road trips
  • The vehicle has not been smoked in
  • The vehicle has never been in an accident.
  • We have both original keys.

Looking forward to any responses, and thank you for reading.

Cheers,
Guv

Your current payoff of $13,664 is 100% not negotiable, you cant tell the bank that you want to owe less money on the car, no exceptions.

All you can do in negotiation is to keep asking multiple dealers and keep pushing them for more money.

The used car value of $22k-$24k that is at dealers means that’s what they sell for at RETAIL, you are never going to get that offer as a trade in value. Trade in value is always much lower, it doesn’t make business sense to pay you the same value as what it sells for on the lot. A dealer can go buy a used one at auction if they really wanted more used car inventory so it doesn’t make sense to overpay on yours

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Appreciate the reply, that makes a lot of sense re: buyout premium, I figured that would be the case but thought I’d ask the question anyway.

And I’m not looking for $22-24k for the appraisal, but if we can get $19k we would be very happy, and ecstatic for $20k – I’m aware that may be out of the realms of possibility, but this is why I’m posting here to get invaluable advice/info such as your reply above.

Thank you for the speedy reply.

This is opposite of what you think it is. The residual would be HIGHER if you had elected a lower mileage allowance and not lower. A car with more miles is worth less than one with fewer miles. And it is thankfully non-negotiable. If it were negotiable, they’d be asking for $18k ish to buy out the lease as the used car market is hot.

Compare offers from different dealers and take the highest. It’s quite simple and you’re making a mountain out of an ant hill.

This would be illegal collusion / price fixing if this were the case.

Coming up quickly on lease end for my current Volvo. Was initially thinking of going down the route of another lease, no specific brand in mind, but obviously have Volvo loyalty available. However, due to the market, i haven’t seen any deals that would work for me, so now contemplating buying out and driving for a few more years.

Model: 2020 Volvo V60 CC

Miles: 29K

Term: 10K / 36 Months

Lease End: July 2023

Monthly Lease: $349

Residual Value: $28K

KBB: $32K - $34K

Condition: Very good (small issue with the tailgate, that I am hoping to get fixed for free while under lease)

State: MI

Qualified for Costco and Loyalty incentives

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There’s very little reason for anyone to bid higher without competition.

You need to get 4+ bids from various Honda and Acura dealers plus any LH brokers listed in the “list of places to sell” thread linked at the top.