Right. The time to buy out a car with $8k in incentives and a 0.002 MF is ASAP, not once you’ve already paid all that rent charge.
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My thinking is that when the 3 years were up, if I owned it I could sell it for close to what I paid for it and have gotten a car to drive for 3 years for free. 
How does even the math compute for that logic?
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Everyone can dream…
How long do you plan to keep the car and how long do you plan to finance it?
This was already discussed in your shared deal thread. Idk why you’re rehashing it.
Have you bothered to do the math on how much you’d save in rent charge by buying it with cash or used auto loan, and what the actual real world value of the vehicle is now?
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I’m “rehashing” it now because its a year later, but thanks…
It probably doesn’t, but that’s why I’m asking.
How long I keep the car depends on what makes sense financially. 3-5 years? I would most likely finance it for 5 years though.
So how much exactly would it cost you to buy out the car today? Buyout price + remaining payments + sales tax. Pre-tax, that looks like $20,800 + ($317/month × 24 months) = $28,408.
Well, looking at your posted signed deal, the pre-incentive sale price was closer to $29.6k before $7900 in manufacturer rebates. MSRP was closer to $35k.
It will be 7 years old once it is paid off. Unless you can finance it for 3 years, it does not look like a good financial decision. How much do you expect its value to be in 2026?
What’s different now than a year ago?
Again, have you bothered to do the math?
perhaps maybe
The difference now is that I have paid a year’s worth of lease payments.
I was not aware that buying out the car would be the buyout price currently listed + the remaining lease payments. Thought it was just the buyout price. If that’s the case, then it definitely doesn’t seem worth it.
How much of that went towards depreciation vs to rent charge?
If it’s current buyout price then it includes any and all payment. If it’s the lease end buyout, then it’s really just the RV. Should be pretty easy to tell which it is. If you know what the contract RV is, that’ll clear it up pretty quickly.
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All the points made before are valid.
It’s a base 2.0T Stinger. It almost makes no sense to buyout at this stage (to me).
I would ride it out until lease end and dump it.
However, you should run the numbers and do the math to see if it makes financial sense (I don’t think it does).
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Buyout price is just that - you’re 100% not responsible for the remaining payments (it’d defeat the purpose of an early buyout if you had to make the payments).
I’m little bored, so ran some math… Based on your initial post (when you got the car) and the calculator provided, it appears you’re paying roughly $70/month in rent charge and the remaining ~$250 goes toward depreciation. Since you have ~26 payments remaining, the cost to carry the car till the end is ~$1920. IF you do nothing, between the lease-end buyout ($14,650) and total remaining payments (26*$317 -> 8242), you;re looking at the cost of the car in 2 years to be $22892 (+tax on RV) in today’s $$$.
IF you buy it out now for #20800 + tax - let’s say $21,500. and finance all for 60 months @ i.e. 3%, your new payment will be ~$386. In 26 months, you’ll have ~$12,577 balance, but you’d have paid $10036 in payments and ~$1206 in interest. So, not including the difference in payment, your carrying costs for the next 26 months are lower with the buyout (duh - you’re paying 3% vs MF of 0.00184/4.42%).
Oh, and if you decide to keep the car in 2 years, you’ll have to come up with ~$15K cash or get a loan, which will probably be higher interest since the car will be older.
In the end, it’s still cheaper to buy it out NOW, but not by any significant amount.(~$1000).
If you could get Carvana/Vroom/Carmax/etc… to buy it for about that, it’d mean free car for the past 10 months.
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