I haven’t really been following Kia Niro EV deals. Are there any marketplace brokers in your area who list such deals? If not, I think there’s at least one in CA, so you could use that as a comparison.
Is the bump in RV for 24 vs. 36 significant? And what’s the buy rate MF?
This is as close as I can get using the LH Calc…
I don’t like using online calculators preferring, instead, to use my own lease calculator programs. Although, the LH calculator is by far the best online calculator I’ve seen. Why isn’t the 650-acquisition fee taxed? In the LH calc, I had to include it in gov fees to avoid taxation. The residual is 29220.05, not 29200.05. Res factor = 71%. You may want to try to do the calculations manually so you can learn more about leasing. You may want to read the below pdf written by yours truly.
Oh… That seems like such a small drop. Might want to check what buy rate MF is for 36 mo. The $7500 is more impactful in a 24-mo lease, but maybe do the math btw 24 vs. 36 mo to see what works better for you and your situation.
There is no justification for it other than to lower your payment by 1.83. A DAS = 0, would mean…
CCR 5906.33
CCR Tax 575.86
1st payment 321.56
Waste Tire 11.25
Acq Fee 650.00
Rec 13.00
Title 18.00 (your original post shows 18, not 18.50)
Temp Tag 4.00 TOTAL 7500.00 Rebate 7500.00 DAS 0.00
Yes, seems like it. If the MF is marked up, that would probably the only thing to try to negotiate?
Do you mean if you want to do a one-pay? I think there’s an MF reduction for that? I am not an experienced hacker, though, so maybe ask on Edmunds, if no one else responds here.
Why? Who cares if it is marked up. Set your target deal off buy rate and offer that. If they need/want to mark up the mf to get there, by all means, let them.
B/c the OP specifically asked what else was negotiable?
I didn’t say the OP should try to negotiate it or should badger the salesperson or should torpedo the deal, if the dealer won’t budge on that. And I also didn’t say that the OP should be unhappy w/ an offer that meets his target deal.
I certainly think it would make sense to try to simply negotiate the total cost with the dealer.
If the dealer balks and says something like, “I can’t give you more of a discount” but has otherwise willing to negotiate, would it make sense to something to the effect of, “I know you’ve given me a good discount, but can you come down on the MF to get it into my target deal?”
Usually its easier to say something along the lines of “take another $20/mo off at the same due at signing/terms” and let them decide if they want to lower the sales price, remove a mark up, etc to get there.
