Post-Sale Issue: ‘20 Chevy Bolt Premier TX

Good afternoon everyone!

I have a question for the Leasehackr experts and I appreciate your input in advance.

I leased a ‘20 Chevy Bolt Premier for my wife last month in Texas for $7,325 on a single pay.

Just recently (few weeks after delivery), the dealer reached out saying there’s a “titling issue” and I need to resign some documents. I asked for more details and they told me I need to resign the lease contract and I asked for a copy of the new one.

The new contract shows a single pay amount of $5,893 where the $7,325 was initially (Box #3). I called them out on it and they just said that it’s due to GM Finance wanting a breakdown of numbers but that Box 6B has the original amount of Line 3.

Is this truly the case and I should just sign it and get it over with or are they being shady and I should ask for the difference back and refuse to sign?

See both attachments for comparison. This was a 36M/12K lease.

Also, I’m looking to lease another Bolt in North Texas and I have a deal lined up for right around what the new contract says (~$5,900) so if I can give this dealer back their bolt (with ~400 miles on it) and cancel the sale without any “consequences”, I would definitely consider it.

I would then try to get two bolts from the more recent dealer and save the ~$1,400 from the first deal.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Looks like they shifted it from 1 pay for all to 2.Xk for Fees and the 5k for 1 Pay.

I don’t see a major issue other than it did change the paperwork a little.

What’s the selling price (“agreed upon value”) on each contract?

Are you referring to Box 7, Line A?

Because the original one says $40,090.00 and the newer one says $40,090.77.

Is this all I should be comparing to make sure I’m signing the same deal?

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Residual value dropped 3% since today, when did you get the new offer?

Then I’m not seeing an obvious space where the deal is manipulated to generate more profit.

The line items like acq, reg, etc go to third parties … it does make some sense that they would need to be itemized.

I got the new offer yesterday evening and they told me the numbers should stay the same in November. That sucks, I hope they don’t change the deal. Maybe they can backdate the contract.

Ok good to know, thanks!

Am I obligated to sign the new deal or can I hand them back the keys and walk away to get a better deal if the opportunity presented itself?

I am not a lawyer.

Based on other posts it seems the original deal must be either undone (AKA unwound) or re-signed with a new contract if the bank does not accept the contract as is.

I have on idea how the dealer can backdated a contract if they did not run your credit check on or before the contract date.

Yeah I think I’m just going to respond back and let them know I’m considering u winding the deal all together unless we can find middle ground and see what they say. Thanks.

Yeah they pulled my credit on Monday so maybe that’s why

You should be fine then.

Just an FYI ‘you’ dont unwind a deal, either you don’t sign or you sign. Only the dealer can unwind after you sign. You can’t sign and then say oops unwind it.

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Good to know, thanks! From my research online from those that were in similar situations, it doesn’t seem like I’m obligated to sign the new contract and I can just have them take the car back.

I’ll probably ask for them to meet me halfway or something. I’ll find out tomorrow.

@Momoney213 Any results? Had something similar happen on my lease, but I am getting $30 back…

Did you ever take the 2,500 TX rebate, because it requires you to keep the car for 12 months

Sorry for the late reply! I ended up giving the Bolt back to the dealer and got my full single pay amount back. They were actually somewhat cool about it and said they wouldn’t have a problem selling it to someone else. I put on about 700 miles so I’m not sure how they’ll sell it as “new” to someone else.

I applied for it but I haven’t received it. Do I have to notify them that I returned the car or will they find out by themselves when verifying the rebate forms?

Yes, you have to. The rebate is locked with the VIN.
You may get in trouble when the next person submits an application with the same VIN.

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